Activity Information


Forbidden Peak/W Ridge

07/12/13 (Fri) - 07/13/13 (Sat)

Seattle Climbing

Stan Hummel

8,815’, Cascade Pass Grade II , 5.6 Rock, glacier travel, Couloir Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: North Cascades National Park • Ranger Station: Marblemount Ranger Station / 360-873-4500 • Equipment: Standard rack, ice axe and crampons. • USGS Maps: Forbidden Peak , Cascade Pass • Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide II, 2nd Edition, pp. 300-303. • Other ref: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, pp. 139-303. Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, pp. 113-117. Classic Climbs of the Northwest, pp 111-114. Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage • Seattle to TH 3.5 hrs 3,200’ 131 • TH to Camp 3 hrs +3,300’ 3.5 • Camp to Summit 6-9 hrs +2,300’ • Summit to Cars 8-10 hrs -5,600’ Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive I-5 N to exit 232 (Cook Road) at Burlington. Turn east to Sedro Wooley and junction of State Route 20. Turn left and continue 47 miles to Marblemount for climb registration and trip permits at Park R.S. From Marblemount take the Cascade River Road (Forest Service 15) for 21.7 miles to Boston Basin Trailhead. The trail initially follows the old Diamond Mine roadbed for about 1 mile to where the trail leaves the road sharply right and steeply up. Follow trail to Boston Basin high camp on flats below glacier at about 6,500’. Alternate bivy campsite exists at top of couloir. Climbing Route • • • • • From Boston Basin campsite, cross glacier to prominent, 500’ long couloir at the left edge of the South Face of Forbidden. Ascend the steep snow and ice filled couloir to the crest of the West Ridge. Climb the exposed ridge on mostly sound rock via ledges and cracks. Difficulties are avoided by traversing on north side of ridge. Running belays speed the ascent. Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Descend climbing route. This may require belayed down-climbing and several single rope rappels along ridge, as well as rappels or step-kicking down couloir. Comments • • • • • • • • • Climb is very popular and usually crowded. Boston Basin permits frequently difficult to obtain. Bergschrunds open up in couloir in late season and can be problematic.

Registration for this activity is being handled by the leader. Please contact the leader directly to register for this activity.

Trip Data
Intermediate Rock Climb

Green Trails Cascade Pass No. 80
Green Trails Diablo Dam No. 48
USGS Cascade Pass
USGS Forbidden Peak

Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Vol 1
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