8,508’, Grade II Basic Alpine

Reference & Data • • • •

• Jurisdiction: North Cascades National Park
• Ranger Station: Marblemount Ranger Station / 360-873-4500
• Equipment: Ice axe, crampons, standard glacier travel gear.
• USGS Maps: Forbidden Peak
• Other Map: North Cascades National Park Complex.
• Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide II, 2nd Edition
• Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage
  • Seattle to TH 2.5 hrs
  • TH to Camp 7-9 hrs +5000’ ~8
  • Camp to Summit 3-4 hrs +2,300’ ~1
  • Summit to Cars 10-12 hrs -7,300’ ~9

Approach • • • • • • • • • • •

Drive I-5 N, take exit 232 (Cook Road) at Burlington, turning east to Sedro Wooley and State Route 20. Continue 47 miles to Marblemount for trip permits at Park R.S. Continue to Colonial Creek and park at the Thunder Creek trailhead, 1,200'

Hike the Thunder Creek Trail for approximately 6 miles, making sure to stay on this trail at the junction with the Panther Creek Trail at about 1.6 miles in. Continue on to McAllister Camp (6.1 miles from TH, 1,700'). The campground is located at a confluence of two valleys - McAllister Creek on the west and Thunder Creek on the south. Ford Thunder Creek or find a log crossing it and mount the ridge. The ridge is long, cliffy, and brushy but manageable. There is a faint climber's trail for much of the ridge but it is easy to lose. With careful routefinding one can avoid anything more than a few class 3 sections. Continue up the ridge for a total of just over 2 miles to the toe of the Borealis Glacier at 6,000 ft. There is good camping here. Allow an entire day to make this camp.

Climbing Route • • • • •

From camp ascend the glacier on its eastern edge to the Primus-Tricouni Col - aka "Lucky Pass" (7,200'). There is an icefall in the middle of the glacier that you will have to avoid. From the col, ascend the east ridge of Primus (class 2-3)

Descent • • • • • • • • • • •

Descend the climbing route.

Comments • • • • • • • • •

This is a strenuous climb as a 2-day trip. A 3-day trip would be more moderate and also allow for tagging Tricouni on the second day. Recommended time frame is mid- to late summer.

Approach from Thunder Creek. Participants must be in excellent condition and must be able to tolerate long, off trail approach.