Prusik Peak/W Ridge
09/13/13 (Fri) - 09/15/13 (Sun)
8,000’, Enchantments Grade II , 5.7 Rock Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: Alpine Lakes Wilderness / Wenatchee National Forest • Ranger Station: Leavenworth Ranger Station / 509-548-6977 • Equipment: Rack to 3 1/2inches, ice axe, crampons in early season. • USGS Maps: Cashmere Mt, Enchantment Lakes • Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide I, 3rd Edition pp 260-262. • Other ref: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, pp. 91-92. Classic Climbs of the Northwest, pp 201-204. Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage • Seattle to TH 3.5 hrs 3,600’ 145 • TH to Camp 10 hrs + 4,000’ • Camp to Summit 3-4 hrs +400’ • Summit to Cars 6-8 hrs - 4,400’ Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive US 2 over Stevens Pass to just W of Leavenworth. Turn right on Icicle Creek road and drive 8.6 miles to Eightmile Road. Turn left and drive 3.5 miles to end and the Stuart Lake Trail, 3,600’. Hike trail about 2 1/2 miles to Colchuck Lake Trail 1559A. Follow the trail across Mountaineer Creek, then S through boulders and up switchbacks 1.6 miles to Colchuck Lake, 5,570’. To ascend Aasgard Pass (labeled Colchuck Pass on USGS topo), follow the path around the lake to the large boulders at the south end of the lake. Follow the stream staying to the left and eventually going left of the first cliffs. Continue southeast up rock and heather, or snow in early season, to just northeast of Aasgard Pass and upper limit of the Enchantment basin. Descend easterly through the lake system of the upper plateau. When the route drops from Talisman Lake to Rune Lake (Inspiration and Perfection, respectively, on USGS) ascend to Prusik Pass and up the West Ridge until it steepens. Climbing Route • • • • • Two pitches of class 4 and low class 5 lead to the crest of the West Ridge. The third pitch begins with a short unprotected 5.7 friction slab followed by easier climbing. Traverse on the south side of a prominent horn to a belay on the ridge. Traverse left, class 4, via ledges on the north side until under the summit. From the highest easy ledge lie back up a steep corner, 5.6, for about 10’ or jam and mantle onto ledge that leads out and right. Climb a right facing thin flake to another ledge. A short narrow chimney leads to the summit. Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Descend off the north face with 3 to 4 single rope rappels or various combinations of double and single rope rappels. When able traverse left, west, to Prusik Pass at the base of the West Ridge. Comments • • • • • • • • • Clean, solid granite on a classic ridge. Permits are required and can be difficult to obtain except well in advance. Numerous camp sites available in Enchantments.
Subject to getting permit of core enchantments
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