Climb NNW to saddle (1780m) between Columnar Peak and the Gargoyles. Descend 120m N to a saddle. Ascend a broad ridge N toward Diamond Head to about 1850m, then contour NNE to a ridge that drops steeply on the NE side to the Diamond Glacier (ridge may be corniced). Find a way down to the glacier and ascend N toward Atwell Peak. Cross over the E ridge of Atwell Peak at about 2215m. Continue N and then W on the Bishop Glacier to gain the broad saddle between Atwell Peak and Garibaldi. Then continue N between Dalton Dome and Garabaldi to the summit gully on Garabaldi. Start the ascent of the summit tower about 12m left of the gully and traverse up and right. Alternate Route #1: Approach from Alice Ridge Road (see map). Join the climbing route above the saddle at head of Mashiter creek. Alternate Route #2: From camp 1km beyond Diamond Head Chalet, take Opal Cone trail past the Gargoyles, Diamond Head and Opal Cone to Garibaldi Neve. Climb NW on the nevŽ. Go past Garibaldi on the right, between it and the Tent. Climb the Warren Glacier on the NE side. The rock on Garibaldi is extremely rotten. Be aware of rockfall at all times, especially under Diamond Head and Atwell Peak. A handline may be required in the final gully, but may need hardware to put in; large blocks can't be trusted. Climbers should ascend in groups of 2 - 3. Plan this climb over a long weekend due to the driving time and length of climb. Trailhead theft is a severe problem in this area. Elevations are given in meters in this description, since Canadian maps show meter contours Ñ configure altimeters appropriately. Be aware that changes in glaciation have occurred on this route: leaders should consult rangers and other parties who have done it, to ensure that this route is feasible.

This is a climb for the Glacier Travel Course Students.