Ascend an obvious gully 100' up and right to a spacious belay area in a clump of trees. Rope up here. Climb a rock face directly upwards. After 40' of mixed 4th & 5th class, move to the left to easier climbing and continue for another 20' to a belay tree. Then climb a 10' face and scramble to the summit. Be careful of small loose rocks near the summit and in the gulley. This climb can be done as one long day or as a relaxed two day trip with camping available at Suprise Lake.Excellent alternate approach: Turn right off Hwy 2 onto FS #6095 at the big sweeping left-hand turn just before Hwy changes to 4 lanes and starts the final climb to Stevens Pass. Hike trail 1061 for 1.6 mi to junction with PCT at Hope Lake. Take PCT south for 3.8 mi. to Trap Pass. About the same distance as other approach, but 800' less gain and better views in nice sub-alpine terrain.

Wearing rock shoes on the climbing route is permissible.