Mt Goode/NE Buttress
08/03/13 (Sat) - 08/06/13 (Tue)
Stephen J. Bobick
Ash Way P&R
Reference & Data • • • •
- Jurisdiction: North Cascades National Park
- Ranger Station: Marblemount Ranger Station / 360-873-4500
- Equipment: Ice axe, crampons, standard rack, ice screws late season.
- USGS Maps: Mt. Goode, McGregor Mt.
- Other Map: North Cascades National Park Complex.
- Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide II, 2nd Edition, pp 317-318.
- Other ref: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, pp 121-124.
- Classic Climbs of the Northwest, pp 237-240
- Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage
- Seattle to TH 4 hrs 4,400’ 170
- TH to Camp 10 hrs -2,080’ +2,800’ ~17
- Camp to Summit 9-12 hrs +3,500’
- Summit to Cars 13-15 hrs -6,300’ +2,100’ ~20
Approach • • • • • • • • • • •Drive I-5 N, take exit 232 (Cook Road) at Burlington, turning east to Sedro Wooley and State Route 20. Continue 47 miles to Marblemount for trip permits at Park R.S. Continue to Rainy Pass, then descend east 2 miles from the pass to a large paved parking area, 4,400’. Hike the Pacific Crest trail S 10 miles to the junction with North Fork Bridge Creek Trail, 2,800’. Hike up North Fork of Bridge Creek, crossing Grizzly Creek. About 1/2 mile further the timber thins. Ford or cross a log of North Fork of Bridge Creek. The alternate aproach via Stehekan is no longer an attractive option due to washouts on the road above Highbridge. Beckey’s topo for the approach is accurate and useful. Ascend timber and scree to left of brushy lower slopes alongside leftmost watercourse draining from Goode Glacier. Ascend either the watercourse or, more likely, the slabs to the right. Bivy either in sparse timber at 5,200’ or in rock bands E of buttress toe at 5,600’. Avoid regions close below active ice cliffs.
Climbing Route • • • • •Here Beckey’s topo is out of date. From bivy site, ascend far left side of Goode Glacier then traverse glacier to left side of toe of Northeast Buttress. Gain crest of with 2 pitches of class 5 climbing., and is easier with higher access to the rock from the glacier. The crest of buttress provides the most aesthetic climbing. Halfway the buttress blends into the face and the climbing gets more difficult. Above, the buttress is again narrow and exposed with more low 5th class climbing, easing as the summit is neared. Good bivy sites near and on the summit. Drop packs for final ascent to summit then return and cross to Black Tooth Notch.
Descent • • • • • • • • • • •Cross to Black Tooth Notch. 3 single rope rappels gain class 3 terrain in the SW couloir. When the couloir ends in cliffs, go left onto easier terrain then traverse back into basin below gully. Park Creek can be reached by descending a ridge that runs 240 degrees from summit. Descend Park Creek trail to Stehekin River back to its junction with Bridge Creek for long return to Rainy Pass. A descent can be made from the Goode/Storm King col directly back to North Fork of Bridge Creek. A double rope rappel may be needed to reach from the col to the glacier head wall. 2 obstacles on the glacier will make this descent difficult in late season: 1). The burgschrund, which can be evaluated from the col. 2). A 50 degree ice slope which can be evaluated on the approach in N. Fork Bridge Creek.
Comments • • • • • • • • •Climb may be best after about 3rd week of July, though accessing the toe of the buttress becomes increasingly difficult. One early July party reported high water crossings of Grizzly Creek and N Fork Bridge Creek difficult to find or suicidal. Other parties have found avalanche debris crossings available earlier in the season. 3 - 4 days recommended.
Please read up on what this climb involves before inquiring into the trip. Participants should have a few grade III climbs under their belts before attempting this.
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