From a large meadow basin (4,800') head SW out of the end of the basin over snow or, later in the season, up right hand peak ridge on heather slopes to just right of a prominent notched block on the ridge. Descend to glacier. Head SW for the obvious corner where the left skyline of the summit massif joins the E ridge. Keep high (right) on the glacier, then ascend left to within 100' of the E rock face. Watch for evidence of rock fall from the face and move to the left if necessary. Later in the season, it may be necessary to drop down lower on the glacier to avoid major crevasses. From the corner, follow a rock and heather covered shelf on an obvious goat/climber trail, high across the entire S face, around the corner and partway to the W face, to a prominent gully. Ascend straight up gully to its top at the ridge crest. Move E (left) just below the ridge, go up a short steep step (class 4), and scramble 200-300' to summit. Two days recommended: late return will generally require crossing the river in the dark, which can be dangerous. Getting from the glacier to the rock can be difficult in late season. The rock/heather shelf can be a problem if wet or snow-covered. Bring running shoes for creek crossing. Best done in late season; creek can be thigh-high as late as mid-August. The route description in Beckey for the upper rock portion is of questionable accuracy.

One day climb required good conditioning. Priority given to Evt students.