Climb up steep slopes into a basin narrowing into a steep snowfield. Continue up snow field to saddle at about 6,500'. Cross saddle to S side of ridge summit tower. Tower is 80 - 90' (to summit at 6917'); mostly class 3-4 with some 5th class moves, OR all 5th class depending on the route taken. Variation: From the ridge on the E side of the castle, follow the crest SE to the base of Unicorn's S peak. Continue around the lower peak on it's N side and follow the snow slope as in the normal approach. Road may not be open before late May - check with Rangers. If not open, park at Narada Falls, and allow time for the extra 6 mi. approach.

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