There are two ascent routes. The easier route follows the left side of the Quien Sabe Glacier to the top of the left side then traverses right along the base of the rock face below Sharkfin Tower. Continue traversing until the Glacier begins to steepen toward the Col. The alternate ascent is significantly shorter and much more direct. Scramble from camp to the right side of the Glacier. Work through the crevasses of the lower section of the glacier (up to 45 deg. and very exposed). The two ascent routes merge about half way up the Glacier to the Col. From the Col traverse right to the summit. Take ice axe and crampons for short but exposed snow traverse on Col to summit block. Scramble loose rock to summit (class 3). The direct route is a lot shorter on the ascent but for experienced climbers who do not mind some exposure. Can be done as one long day but best done as two days to avoid a late return. Excellent late season climb.

Dennis Kiilerich (dkiilerich@gmail.com) is mentored leader. Please contact Dennis for leader permission.