8,050’, Washington Pass Grade II , 5.6 Rock Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: North Cascades National Park • Ranger Station: Marblemount Ranger Station / 360-873-4500 • Equipment: Light rack of mostly medium to larger. • USGS Maps: Washington Pass • Other Map: North Cascades National Park Complex • Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide III, 2nd Edition, pp. 355. Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage • Seattle to TH 3.5 hrs 5,000’ 162 • TH to Climb 3-4hrs +2,000’ • Climb Start to Summit 3-6 hrs +1,000’ • Summit to Cars 2-3 hrs -3,050’ Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive I-5 N to exit 232 (Cook Road) at Burlington. Turn east to Sedro Wooley and junction of State Route 20. Turn left and drive through Marblemount (47 miles) and on to Rainy Pass. From PCT trailhead, N of highway 20 at Rainy Pass, follow PCT north for about 20 minutes. Leave trail at small streambed just before large creek, and ascend steep open timber to basin NW of the peak (brief avalanche swath debris to cross before entering basin. Ascend to head of basin and 7,520+ ft. notch between N and S peaks. Climbing Route • • • • • Gain ridge via obscure gully 200 - 300 feet S of notch. On ridge, rock improves significantly. 5th class steps and easier climbing lead to base of summit block. Ascend easy broken chimney to summit. Running belays are frequently useful on this route. Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Downclimb route; easy with several short rappels. One longer rappel to notch. Or, descend Basic route on W. Ridge route (reportedly loose). Comments • • • • • • • • • Short approach from North Cascades Highway to a short, uncrowded climb of modest technical difficulty. Some parties prefer to bivy in basin below ridge night before climb.

Car camp night before for early start.