8,000’, Enchantments Grade III , 5.9 Rock Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: Alpine Lakes Wilderness / Wenatchee National Forest • Ranger Station: Leavenworth Ranger Station / 509-548-6977 • Equipment: Rack to 3 1/2inches, ice axe, crampons in early season. • USGS Maps: Cashmere Mt, Enchantment Lakes • Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide I, 3rd Edition pp 259-262. • Other ref: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, pp. 89-91. Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage • Seattle to TH 3.5 hrs 3,600’ 145 • TH to Camp 10 hrs + 3,650’ • Camp to Summit 3-6 hrs + 650’ • Summit to Cars 6-8 hrs - 4,400’ Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive US 2 over Stevens Pass to just W of Leavenworth. Turn right on Icicle Creek road and drive 8.6 miles to Eightmile Road. Turn left and drive 3.5 miles to end and the Stuart Lake Trail, 3,600’. Hike trail about 2 1/2 miles to Colchuck Lake Trail 1559A. Follow the trail across Mountaineer Creek, then S through boulders and up switchbacks 1.6 miles to Colchuck Lake, 5,570’. To ascend Aasgard Pass (labeled Colchuck Pass on USGS topo), follow the path around the lake to the large boulders at the south end of the lake. Follow the stream staying to the left and eventually going left of the first cliffs. Continue southeast up rock and heather, or snow in early season, to just northeast of Aasgard Pass and upper limit of the Enchantment basin. Descend easterly through the lake system of the upper plateau. When the route drops from Talisman Lake to Rune Lake (Inspiration and Perfection, respectively, on USGS) ascend to the gentle ridge E of Rune’s upper basin to Gnome Tarn. From here traverse NE to Prusik’s S Face, 7,350’. Climbing Route • • • • • Start left of 2 deep chimneys in a crack system on steep white granite, 5.8 to a belay below some shrubby pines. 5.7 climbing works up through some pines. Pitch 3 climbs up and works right through corners and cracks to a shallow chimney, 5.8. Another 5.8 pitch climbs up the chimney to belay beneath chockstone. For pitch 5, climb up and squirm through the hole behind the chockstone (a tight fit, not recommended wearing a pack through the hole) then work slightly right to an awkward, slippery chimney with one fixed piece of protection, 5.9+, reaching the left end of long ledge. Move the belay to the right end where pitch 7, an athletic 5.9 crack pitch, climbs to the summit. Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Descend off the north face with 3 to 4 single rope rappels or various combinations of double and single rope rappels. When able traverse left, west, to Prusik Pass at the base of the West Ridge. Comments • • • • • • • • • Clean, solid granite on a classic face. Permits are required and can be difficult to obtain except well in advance. Numerous camp sites available in Enchantments.

Either this route or the Beckey/Davis depending on interest. Must have 5.10 trad leading experience.