6,554’, Snoqualmie Pass Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: Alpine Lakes Wilderness / Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest • Ranger Station: Snoqualmie Pass Visitor Center / 360-434-6111 • Equipment: Rack to 3inches, ice axe in early season. • USGS Maps: Snoqualmie Pass, Chikamin Peak • Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide I, 3rd Edition, pp 170-172. Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage • Seattle to TH 1 hr 3,022’ 53 • TH to Camp 4 hrs + 2,500’ • Camp to Summit 6 hrs + 1,000’ • Summit to Cars 4-6 hrs - 3,500’ Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive I-90 East from Seattle to Exit 52, Snoqualmie Pass. Turn left then make the first right on the paved road to the parking area of the Pacific Crest Trail, 3,022’. Take the Crest Trail north about 8 miles to Bumblebee Pass, 5,400’, about 1/2 mile past Ridge Lake. Scramble a climbers trail up and over Bumblebee Pass and down (north) into the basin directly in front of Mt. Thompson. Snow fills the basin until mid season and water is available throughout the summer. Bivy sites can be found in the western part of the basin. Climbing Route • • • • • From this basin, contour northwest to a notch at the base of the West Ridge, 5,960’ where the first pitch begins starting slightly to the left, north. The first pitch goes straight up the West Ridge for a full pitch to a big bushy tree. The second pitch continues straight up the ridge about 120’ to a solid but airy belay. The third pitch continues straight up past a large ledge with a snag up to a giant slab. The next pitch is easy walking across the top of a large slab to a corner at base of the continuation of the ridge. Proceed straight up for 1 long or 2 short pitches to just below false summit. Scramble over false summit and one short pitch leads to the summit. Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Descend via the East Ridge including one 15’ section of class 4 downclimbing and some tricky class 3 slabs. Many parties rappel sections of the East Ridge with 1 or 2 short rappels. After reaching notch in ridge, descend gulley to basin. Comments • • • • • • • • • Beckey describes a route that is partially on SW face. The above route goes straight up the West Ridge. Finding the correct start for the climb and descent often takes longer than expected. Although described in 2 days, many parties complete this climb round trip from the cars in one long day.

Leader permission to verify conditioning appropriate for intermediate rock climb done as one day which is normally done as 2 (extremely fit parties on past trips have taken 14 hrs).