Traverse around the lake to the start of the glacier and rope up point. Follow the glacier for 1.5km. and 300m gain. Cross the saddle between Wedge and Parkhurst and descend 100m while traversing around past the major West Ridge couloir. Take the Snow Ridge to the Sky to gain the SW slope at 2350m. To midseason, traverse right several hundred feet to find a snowfield. Ascend this and/or talus ENE to the long summit ridge and follow to the summit (if in a whiteout, the cairn is not the summit). The West Ridge variation up the broad couloir involves several hundred feet of steep (to 45-degrees) snow with significant rockfall danger. The climb can be done in two days as a world-class quad burner, but is best done on a long weekend. Elevations are given in meters in this description, since Canadian maps show meter contours Ñ configure altimeters appropriately.

A beautiful area - note, however, that the approach for this climb is fairly steep and about 3600'. You should be doing hikes at least a couple of times a month carrying 25% of your body weight to be in shape for this climb. As long as you're confident you're training enough, you can get permission for this climb (just e-mail me first). We may be able to do it in two days depending on the team speed and stamina. Drive time from Seattle is about 4:45 (according to google maps).