Mt Cruiser/SW Corner
08/03/13 - 08/04/13
From Flapjack Lakes hike 1.5 mi. on trail to Gladys Divide. Just before the Divide, ascend SE up the steep snow couloir to a saddle. Gain the ridge crest and scramble a gully close to Mt. Cruiser. Ascend up and right on class 3-4 rock for about 200' to a short chimney with a ÒcannonÓ hole at the top. Ascend through the hole and then cross a large platform about 75' to a belay spot. From the belay spot, there is a bolt, up, right, around the comer, on the face. A short class 4-5 lead up the face ends at a belay spot on the ridge crest above fixed pins (used for rappelÑcaution!). Small chocks can be placed. A class 3 pitch up the crest (very exposed but bolted) gains the summit. Obtain the required permit and pay the overnight fee at the Staircase Ranger Station. The snow in the couloir is steep and often icy. In late season, it may be best to crawl the moat. The rock on the climb is sound; the exposure on the final two pitches is high. One could make a shorter (steeper) approach via the Hamma River Road and Mildred Lakes trail. Bivy sites are available at about 6540'. The Climber's Guide to the Olympics says, after reaching notch above Gladys Divide, to traverse E 50', then ascend ridge and scramble N towards Cruiser. Easier terrain is found by ascending up cracks and ledges directly N from notch. In 1998, reservations and a $2 per person fee were required. Reservations could only be made up to one month in advance.
Everett BCC Students given Priority until July 15th.