Activity Information


Mt Baker/N Ridge

08/11/14 (Mon) - 08/12/14 (Tue)

Seattle Climbing

Steve Biem

7:00 AM

Heliotrope TH

Baker / N Ridge Check out the new Intermediate Climbs Guide page currently in work for this route: Do you have digital maps and photos of this route? You can help us improve this route description by sharing your data with us. Send a request to the route custodian at for EDIT access to the link above. Also let us know if you would like to be a route custodian for your favorite routes. Route custodians manage the improvement of the route descriptions we all rely on. Baker / N Ridge 10,778’, Nooksack Grade II Ice Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: Mt. Baker Wilderness / Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest • Ranger Station: Glacier Visitor Center / 360-599-2714 • Equipment: Ice tools, pickets, and crampons. • USGS Maps: Mt. Baker • Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide III, 2nd Edition, pp 32-33. • Other ref: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, pp. 204-206. 100 Hikes in the North Cascades, Hike #1, Heliotrope Ridge. Classic Climbs in the Northwest, pp 92-95. Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage • Seattle to TH 3 hrs 3,700’ 133 • TH to Camp 4-6 hrs +3,100’ • Camp to Summit 7-10 hrs +4,000’ • Summit to Cars 5 hrs -7,100’ Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive I-5 N to Bellingham exit 255. Drive Hwy 542 east 33 miles to the town of Glacier and get permit at Glacier Ranger Station. One mile east of Glacier, turn south on Glacier Creek Road 39and drive 8 miles S to Mt. Baker Trailhead, 3,700’. Follow well-established trail to Heliotrope Ridge, then traverse Coleman Glacier to bivy campsite at 6,800’. Climbing Route • • • • • From Coleman Glacier campsite, travel as directly to North Ridge as crevasses will allow. Avoid passing directly beneath Roman Nose and Coleman Headwall. Gain North Ridge by ascending its west slope, then continue up ridge as it steepens below ice wall at 9,600’. This ice wall is the steepest, most technical part of the climb. Above ice wall, the ridge lays back to an easy gradient. Near the top, make a leftward traverse at the final ice formation to reach summit plateau. Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Descend standard route via Roman Wall and Coleman Glacier. Comments • • • • • • • • • Climb is quite popular and bottlenecks sometimes occur on ice wall.

Preference will be given to those who help Instruct at the Ice 1 FT scheduled on 08/09-08/10. The plan is to teach the ice FT's on the weekend and climb Sunday evening/Monday morning.

This is not available for registration yet.

3 spaces open

Leader's Permission Required

Registration opens on Thu, May 1 at 9:00 AM
Registration closes on Fri, Aug 1 at 5:00 PM

If you are under 18 years old, please contact the leader prior to registering.

Trip Data
Intermediate Ice Climb
Brisk / Fast

Green Trails Mt Baker No. 13
USGS Mt Baker

Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Vol 1
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