8,600’, Stuart Range Grade II , 5.4 Rock
Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: Alpine Lakes Wilderness / Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
• Ranger Station: Leavenworth Ranger Station / 509-548-6977
• Equipment: Small rack to 1 1/2inches, ice axe in early season.
• USGS Maps: Mt. Stuart
• Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide I, 3rd Edition, pp 296-299.
• Other ref: Mountaineers Library Intermediate Trip Reports.
Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage
• Seattle to TH 2-3 hrs 4,243’ 115
• TH to Camp 5-7 hrs + 4,700’ -1,500’
• Camp to climb 1 hr + 700’
• On climb 4-6 hrs + 500’
• Summit to cars 6-10 hrs - 5,700’ +1,500’
Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive I-90 to exit 85, turn left to Hwy 970. Drive 6.6 miles and turn left on Teanaway River road.
Follow north fork road approximately 23 miles to end of road at 4,243’. Take Longs Pass trail over
Longs Pass, 6,200’, and drop down to Ingalls Creek, 4,800’. Cross creek to Ingalls Creek Trail
(good log in ‘97) and go right about a mile to the Beverly-Turnpike Trail junction, 4,700’. Leave
the trail and ascend rightward across the meadow to where the slope begins to steepen at about
5,000’. Cross the stream and ascend the ridge, staying left of the crest. Around 5,800' traverse right,
cross over the ridge and contour into the basin. Camp available at 6,200’ or continue up left of
cliffband and waterfall to an upper basin camp at 7,400’ on a big, flat rock amidst a boulder field.
Climbing Route • • • • • From high camp climb to Stuart-Sherpa col at about 8,100’. Aim for the notch closest to Sherpa.
Climb ridge staying close to ridge crest for about 200’ to a small notch, (class 4). Cross over to
south side of ridge crest. Traverse big sandy benches and easy rocks to steep SW face. Readily
ascend broken rock to a small cave (1/3 way up face). The next section is the crux (5.4) of the
climb. From here either move right to a jam crack on a flake which leads to a chimney thence to
the summit ridge, or move left on small face holds and mantle into a gully that leads to summit
Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Rappel the ascent route. Two single rope rappels from the top leads to a scramble to another single
rope rappel followed by a final double rope rappel. Some single rope rappels can be combined into
double with difficult pulls. Some parties also make a rappel down the dirty gully from the notch.
Comments • • • • • • • • • Best done in early season when snow covers talus and water is plentiful. Variations are possible to
accomodate greater levels of exposure and difficulty. Rock is solid and easy to protect. Slow
parties may need a 3rd day.
There is a good description of the climb here http://www.summitpost.org/west-ridge/159848
Sunday will be a long day, expect to get back pretty late.