Chair Peak/NE Buttress
08/17/13 (Sat) - 08/18/13 (Sun)
Three FIngers TH (641)
From the base of the buttress, climb a blocky gully that begins just down and right of the divide. The gully angles right then straightens up. From the top of the gully, continue up the blocky, low-angle face, angling left up exposed, slabby ledges toward a cluster of trees near the prow of the buttress. The initial gully/chimney requires 2 pitches. At the top of pitch 2, bear left to the buttress crest to a comfortable and generous flat area in trees. From the top of the slabby face, climb through the trees, up steep eroded and rocky heather slopes, and around the south side of the summit stack. The belay may be hard to see, but is protected by bolts on the face perhaps a half rope length left of the buttress crest proper. Find the easiest route up through steeper portion of the face to the knarly tree. Then go up easy loose rock to the summit. The route involves about 400 feet of rock climbing, most exposed 3 and 4th class. Beware of rockfall hazard caused by climbers and rope drag. Harder climbing is possible by ascending directly up buttress crest from the tree patch. Rockfall hazard is very serious on this climb. Take every precaution, during entire climb and descent.
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