Guye Peak/S Gully-S Spur
Approach Notes: There is no parking at Sahale Ski club area so start at the Commonwealth TH. Follow the road to the Sahale Ski club area. When approaching the route the Becky guide offers a decent description. Essentially you will follow the road to the top and beyond the ski lift until it ends. From there, head north eastwards towards the rock cliffs then follow the cliffs to the climbers right towards the south end of the peak. When looking for the correct gully to ascend, pass the first small gulley (10-15 feet wide) and continue across the talus to an expansive gulley (25 plus feet wide). Follow this gully straight up. It is a short bush whack from the top of the Sahale Ski area to the base of the south west cliffs. Once at the cliff is was a clear traverse to the South Gully. We went out using the Cave Ridge trail, so we left a car at the Alpental parking lot in order to get back to the Commonwealth TH. Climb Notes: Follow the South Gully straight up. A hand line and prussic can be used in a couple of spots for the timid climbers. Lots of trees to fix and anchor. Continue up and north until you come to a chock stone (approximately 4500 ft). Then traverse right (east) for 50-100 feet then follow the south spur to the summit. A climber could attempt the chock stone and continue up the same gully, but protection and a belay may be required. Approximately 200 feet above the chock stone you can enter the gully again to gain the south summit. The traverse to the middle summit by going slightly to the east of the ‘middle’ summit down around some obstructing rock. Rappel down the middle summit and scrambled across an exposed gully to the base of the North summit. From the bottom of this, there is a scramble gully going up the from there to just north of the north peak. Decend the North Peak to the North. Continue down to the saddle between Guye and Cave Ridge. Continue down around northward until you get to a junction with the Snoqualmie trail. Equipment Notes: This climb can be done with no pro unless you decide to ascend the chockstone. A rope for a hand line going up some of the exposed sections might be warranted depending on the confidence of the group. Two slings used on the rap. Climbers need a prussic, belay device, and locking biner. Strongly recommend helmet be worn once you enter the talus field. Climber induced rock fall is very probable on this route.
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