8,050’, Washington Pass Grade III , 5.6 Rock
Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: North Cascades National Park
• Ranger Station: Marblemount Ranger Station / 360-873-4500
• Equipment: Light rack of mostly larger pro (1-2inches).
• USGS Maps: Washington Pass
• Other Map: North Cascades National Park Complex
• Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide III, 2nd Edition, pp. 357-359 (S Buttress).
• Other Ref: Selected Climbs in the Northwest Vol. II, pp 179-182
Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage
• Seattle to TH 3.5 hrs 5,000’ 162
• TH to Camp 2 hrs +1,500’
• Camp to Summit 5-6 hrs +1,550’
• Summit to Cars 4 hrs -3,050’
Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive I-5 N to exit 232 (Cook Road) at Burlington. Turn east to Sedro Wooley and junction of State Route 20. Turn left and drive through Marblemount (47 miles) and on to Rainy Pass. Continue east about three more miles and park along highway near Whistler Mountain sign. Descend from highway to crossing of State Creek. Ascend open slopes on east side of SE draining stream to basin immediately south of Cutthroat Peak.
Climbing Route • • • • • Ascend to basin headwall and climb twin gullies to notch at base of Southeast Buttress. Start in right gully and traverse into left gully before notch. Above notch, easy scrambling leads to short, steep face. Stay generally near crest of buttress, then follow large ledge to the left. This leads to a gully that must be ascended to “Tarzan Jump” at its top. Scramble sandy gully above to notch between the false summit humps, then climb mixed 3rd, 4th and 5th Class rock to summit.
Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Rappel and downclimb route or West Ridge.
Comments • • • • • • • • • Very short approach from North Cascades Highway. Not an especially difficult route, but the overall length mandates efficient climbing to avoid a headlamp return or bivy, especially later in season. Some parties prefer to bivy in basin below peak night before climb.
Young/Draves Intermediate Mentor Group Climb. Plan to drive up to WA Pass Friday night for 6:00 am start Saturday morning. Planning to climb S Buttress route and rappel same.
Registration for this activity is being handled
by the leader. Please contact the leader directly to register for this activity.