Ascend the glacier to the snow ridge, then up the ridge to the moat near the summit rock. Moat is crossable in early season. May need snow anchors to belay across to rock. Final rock is a short scramble. Somewhat exposed. Rope leaders may want 2-4 stoppers. Car camp (minimal parking room at trailhead) is recommended as this is a very long climb and requires an early start in the morning. The other climbing route via the Whitehorse Glacier should be avoided as it is dangerous (avalanches, rockfall). This climb is an excellent conditioner in early season. Consider stopping at the Texaco station (where Whitehorse Merchantile used to be) and looking at route before climb (Lone Tree Pass is not obvious from directly below). The approach road was repaired in 1999; the trail was worked on in June, 2000.

Assistant leader Linsey Warren. Contact leader for details.