From Roush Creek Basin, proceed up snowfields and Eldorado Glacier just left (W) of rocky ridge. Follow this to broad flat area of Inspiration Glacier at about 7,500'(good camps near rocks). Traverse Inspiration Glacier around to N and follow broad snow covered ridge to top (8,868'). Summit ridge is a spectacular knife-edge of snow. Finding the log crossing at the parking lot, and the climber's trail on the other side, is very important. This climb is considered fairly grueling and strenuous because of the elevation gain over uneven ground. An early start on the approach may help. The trail is strictly a climber's trail, but has improved in recent years. If the weather is good, the views are tremendous. Because this area sustains heavy use, do not camp in Eldorado Basin. Glacier may remain passable into very late season.

This is a fast paced one day climb of a peak normally done as an overnight. Participants must be in good shape and able to move quickly over mixed terrain the entire day.