Climb up steep slopes into a basin narrowing into a steep snowfield. Continue up snow field to saddle at about 6,500'. Cross saddle to S side of ridge summit tower. Tower is 80 - 90' (to summit at 6917'); mostly class 3-4 with some 5th class moves, OR all 5th class depending on the route taken. Variation: From the ridge on the E side of the castle, follow the crest SE to the base of Unicorn's S peak. Continue around the lower peak on it's N side and follow the snow slope as in the normal approach. Road may not be open before late May - check with Rangers. If not open, park at Narada Falls, and allow time for the extra 6 mi. approach.

Welcome to the Unicorn Peak basic alpine climb. This trip is either: • approximately 6 miles and 2,500ft elevation gain from the Snow Lake TH, or, . . . • approximately 11 miles and 3,300ft elevation gain from the Narada Falls TH closer to Longmire (used when the road to the Snow Lake TH is not yet open) We can do either one, depending on the group’s preferences. Just let me know whether you’d like to “see the sights” or “cut to the chase.” I’ll be happy to be out there either way. ... More

Welcome to the Unicorn Peak basic alpine climb. This trip is either: • approximately 6 miles and 2,500ft elevation gain from the Snow Lake TH, or, . . . • approximately 11 miles and 3,300ft elevation gain from the Narada Falls TH closer to Longmire (used when the road to the Snow Lake TH is not yet open) We can do either one, depending on the group’s preferences. Just let me know whether you’d like to “see the sights” or “cut to the chase.” I’ll be happy to be out there either way. Let’s plan on meeting at the TH at 6:30am with a plan to be walking by 7am. Google maps indicates about 115 miles and 2 hrs & 30 minutes drive time from the 65th P&R. Those interested in carpooling should plan on meeting at the 65th P&R at 4:00am. If there are other carpool meeting places that make more sense than the 65th P&R please email this group with suggestions on carpool meeting place alternatives. For those unfamiliar with the drive to the TH, head south on I-5 to 405N and then from Renton take 167S through Puyallup, 161S to Eatonville and onward on 7 and then 706 to the park entrance. There’s an alternative route through Tacoma and Lakewood to 7 that takes you to Eatonville. Just use your favorite mapping website to Paradise WA. There’s a $10 per car park entrance fee unless you have an annual national park pass. Once in the park follow the main road to Longmire and continue East past the turn off to Paradise and onto Steven's Canyon Road. The standard route begins at the Snow Lake Trailhead on Steven's Canyon Road about 3 miles East of Reflection Lakes. Alternatively you’ll see signs for the Narada Falls TH on the main road before the turn off to Paradise visitor center. Basic climbers please bring: • 10 essentials • All gear for a rock climb • Harness, carabineers, slings, etc. • Crampons • Ice axe & helmet • A functioning headlamp with fresh batteries and spares. Rope Leads please bring (in addition to the above): • Rock Rope (50 – 60 meters) • Light rack Here are several helpful web links with general information on Unicorn Peak: Summit Post Peak bagger WTA And here’s the NOAA spot & zone weather forecast: NOAA for Unicorn Peak I think that covers everything, but please call or email with questions.

Less