Ingalls Peak/S Ridge
Kenneth Small (Qualified Youth Leader)
Details to come.
**REMINDER** This climb is subject to the PRIORITY CLIMBS LIST. Please verify that your branch has priority for this climb.
From just below the notch, traverse along the right side of the Dogtooth Crags, climbing broken rock and slabs to a broad bench just below the large red slab. (Alternative: Follow a slab-ramp along the left side of the Dogtooth Crags, go around a corner, and climb a knife-edge ridge). Climb the obvious crack for a full rope length lead to a belay at a fixed piton on the slab. A short lead up and left leads to the belay cove under the dark horns. Another short pitch goes up and right from the right side of the cove to a notch in the left skyline. Scramble to the summit. Variation for the SW face: Begin 100' down the W side from the notch, ascend the friction slab to a belay on a ledge with fixed pitons. Move left, then up a class 3 gully for one fairly long lead to a tree. Scramble right, then climb a gully to the belay cove under the dark horns on the S. Ridge. Complete as per normal route. The hike in may be hot, but not especially strenuous. Climbing is on generally good rock with moderate exposure. Rope leaders should have class 5 leading experience, as the red slab requires protection and has several tricky moves in the 5.2 - 5.3 range with a 5.6 variation, if desired. This climb is typically done as a one-day climb with a 6 -7 a.m. start. It may not be possible to drive all the way to the trailhead until late June.
Wearing rock shoes on the climbing route is permissible.
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