8,840’, Enchantments Grade IV , 5.8 Rock
Reference & Data • • • • Jurisdiction: Alpine Lakes Wilderness / Wenatchee National Forest
• Ranger Station: Leavenworth Ranger Station / 509-548-6977
• Equipment: Standard rack.
• USGS Maps: Enchantment Lakes, Cashmere Mountain
• Beckey: Cascade Alpine Guide I, 3rd Edition, pp. 279-286.
• Other ref: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, pp 73-80.
• Reference 3: Mountaineer Library Intermediate Trip Reports.
Time Elevation gain/loss Mileage
• Seattle to TH 3 hrs 3,400’ 145
• TH to Camp 3 hrs +2,100’ 5
• Camp to Climb 1 hr +1,300’
• Climb to Summit 6-10 hrs +2,040’
• Summit to Camp 3-4 hrs -3,340’
• Camp to TH 2.5 hrs -2,100’
Approach • • • • • • • • • • • Drive U.S. 2 over Stevens Pass to just W. of Leavenworth. Turn right on Icicle Creek Road and
drive 8.6 miles to Eightmile Road. Turn left and drive 3.5 miles to road end and Mountaineer
Creek Trail. Hike 2-1/2 miles to where it forks. Go left (Colchuck Lake Trail) 1-1/2 miles to the
lake, and 1 mile along the lake to camps on S. side of lake.
Climbing Route • • • • • Ascend talus and moraine from camp, working left onto the lateral moraine trending to the base of
Serpentine Arete. Aim for a large orange-toned area of rock visible at the base of the arete. Above
is a large black triangle of rock topped with a pillar. Cross short section of glacier to the rock. The
first 2 pitches follow broken rock up first left then right, heading for the left side of the large black
triangle. Pitch 3 follows the left side of the black rock, to a large sandy ledge. These are full
pitches. Traverse right around the base of the pillar on a good ledge and set up belay (very short
pitch or unbelayed). The pillar can be climbed (5.8) on either side, but a 5.8 finger to hand crack
that begins about 10’ right of the pillar is the usual route. The pitch ends at a horn above and
slightly to right of the pillar. The 5th pitch steps left on easy friction, then ascends dihedral and
chickenheads (5.7-5.8 then easing) to base of an easy chimney that trends to the left. The 6th pitch
works up the chimney and towards the crest of the arete. The 7th pitch takes you up onto the crest.
The remaining climbing (8 more pitches) is 3rd to mid-5th class. Key to staying on route is to keep
to the arete. Very loose blocky rock is present on some 3rd class sections. Stay out of the large
whitish gully to the right and stay on the arete. Eventually a downclimb is necessary, followed by
1-2 easy pitches to the summit block, which is climbed directly (5.7, several routes) or via a short
4th class detour to the left and then to the summit. Approximately 15 pitches total.
Descent • • • • • • • • • • • Walk to major pass E of summit, then descend glacier which has a good runout for glissading., and
other easy descents and trails are possible. Traverse to Aasgard Pass and descend paths or snow to
Comments • • • • • • • • • Permit is required to camp at Colchuck Lake.