Climbing Hints

 published 1930

The Climbing Committee has been securing ideas on the best methods of climbing and the most practicable equipment. Climbing hints will be published whenever space is available in the Bulletin. Much information was obtained from C. A. Fisher. Excerpts from Happy's letter follow: "Remember that these are my opinions only and may not agree with yours or others. A privilege it is to do what I can as I know others are better fitted to answer your needs but this may be a radical influence on your committee. Your letter says serious climbing, so no need be made to take up valley pounding or getting in condition for a trip. I make no mention here of clothing.

Glasses-Although many colored glasses and non-glare devices are on the market the best glasses suited for one that plans to do any extensive climbing consist of a pair of goggles of darkened glass, with shield on the sides to prevent burn from reflected light. The shields should be ventilated to prevent moisture condensing on the inside of the glass. The glasses should be held in place by an elastic band rather than bows.

Axe or Alpenstock-Although declared by many as being dangerous, it is no doubt true, that the person who is doing any real climbing should be equipped with an ice axe. The alpenstock is the thing for the novice only. The axe will often save the life of a climber who would be lost with the straight pole.

"If the climber clings to the alpenstock he should have one not over five feet in height of of a material and weight heavy enough o support his or her weight by the middle.

"There is no question as to the advisability of having a thong fixed to an axe or stock, with a loop provided to slip over the wrist. Now there is no question but the novice should be tied, to his stock or he will lose it but one who has done much climbing is better off without it. In case of a fall he may get tangled in his thong and though he might lose his axe without the thong, any real climber is going to hang onto his axe until the end. The Swiss climbers use no thong and see no need for one. The only use of a thong is in the climbing of a cliff where both hands are needed on the rock. This can be worked by slipping the axe through one's belt.

"In crossing a tilted snow field or scree slope, the alpenstock is and always should be kept in such a position that the point s on the uphill side of the climber. The uphill hand low on the stock and the other hand high on the handle. If a thong is used it should be on the wrist on the downhill side of the climber. On steep slopes the axe is held in the same manner but on gentler slopes may be handled on either side of the climber as a cane.

"Ice steps are chopped with the point of an axe rather than with the blade. The blade is more for snow use and cleaning out steps

"There are many styles of axes and sizes depending on the buyer. However, the main factor in the buying should be to get good material, straight grain wood free from knots and heavy enough to hold one's weight.

"Rope-The rope should be of a size that will not only hold the party but be climbable. The best ropes are of the twisted style rather than braided, as there is less danger of fraying on a sharp ice or rock edge. Common Manila rope may be used, but a real rope should be used that will stand a high test. A soft rope is better than a stiff one.

"In using the rope on dangerous slopes the person should be tied in rather than hold the rope in the hands. Various knots are in common use but the purpose is to tie a knot that will not tighten up on a climber, and yet is easily untied, yet not so much as to work loose during a climb. I favor a double bow line rather than an overhand knot on a bight.

"When to rope is a question I cannot answer and can only be decided by a climb leader, depending upon his party and local conditions, It may be such a case as being too dangerous to rope where it is better to lose one climber than the whole party. The only advice I could offer is, when in doubt rope up. It is the duty of members of a roped party to take care of the rope in front of each, especially when working over loose rock, that may become dislodged. In work ing on dangerous slopes only one climber on a rope should move at a time, and on crevassed snow slopes the rope should be more or less tight at all times. The end men on a rope have the position of trust and should be ready at all times to hold a party. It is no sign of weakness on a climb leader to rope in his party when climbing on slopes that might result in a fall."