WHILE
the first ascent of Mount Constance was made on June 26, 1922, by
Robert Schellin and myself, it seems to me that mention should be
made of a trip made a month earlier by Thomas J. Acheson and myself.
This was Mr. Acheson's fifth attempt at the mountain.
Mr. Acheson and I went in from the Docewallips river, and on the
second day of our trip reached a point on the headwaters of the
Quilcene river, about two and a half miles in an air-line from the
summit of the mountain.
The view of the mountain top and surrounding country at that time
made me more than ever determined some day to make the climb. Mr.
Acheson's ten-power binoculars revealed a succession of almost perpendicular
rock walls, which promised some real climbing for any party who
should ever reach the top. It was from this point, and at this time,
that Mr. Acheson and I picked out approximately the route followed
a month later by Mr. Schellin and myself.
After getting back to Bremerton, I got in touch with Mr. Schellin
and Mr. Collier, and we arranged to climb the mountain. The three
of us intended to start the evening of the 23rd of June, but unfortunately
Mr. Collier was injured, so he was unable to accompany us.
In the few days preceding our start, I had purchased and divided
into three parts the commissary necessary for an eleven day stay
in the hills. Just as we were ready to leave, we heard that Mr.
Collier had had an accident. Our time was so limited that we could
not rearrange the food, so Bob and I started with forty pounds of
food between us.
Our first lap was to Seabeck by stage and from there we took a
launch to Brinnon. We camped that night about one-quarter of a mile
from the Olympic highway.
The following morning we started at 4:25, Bob carrying fully fifty
pounds, while I ad about sixty pounds. We arrived at the Miner's
Cabin thirteen miles from the highway at 5 PM, and cooked and ate
supper. The bunks were ready for the blankets and as the day's work
had been all the exercise we cared for, we retired early.
The morning of the 25th we left the cabin at 5.30 with approximately
twenty-five pounds in one knapsack, consisting of two blankets,
an extra outer garment apiece, food for three days, and a few medical
supplies.
The climb to the top of the ridge that runs parallel to the Dosewallips,
will long be remembered. We climber as steadily as possible for
I knew there was no water till we reached the top. We found snow
at the top at 1.50 am, so we stopped for lunch. Tea was made from
melted snow and we took an hour off to eat and rest. While resting
we decided our course form that point.
Leaving at 1 PM, we climbed a hill that rose to about 5,500 feet
elevation. Then we dropped about 1,000 feet and climbed several
hundred feet up over a second ridge, which was the divide leading
to the Quilcene river. This ridge was the farthest point Mr. Acheson
and I had reached on our May trip. A long snow slide lay before
us so we had some easy going. After losing about 1,000 feet in elevation,
we swung off the snow, crossing several rock slides and kept at
the foot of a wall, a good but of the way, till we came to a long,
rock chimney. As it was a likely looking side, we made camp for
the night at 4.30 PM.
Camp that night was cold, as we were up about 4,000 feet, and a
wind blew continually through the chimney. Before going to bed,
I filled the pail from the small stream. It was well that I did
for in the morning the stream was frozen.
On the morning of the 26th, at 4.20, the sunrise was beautiful.
We rose early and ate as quickly as possible. Taking about two pounds
of food and extra wraps, we started for the top at 5.25. As we had
decided our route the previous night, we lost no time on the 1,500
foot wall that rose in front of us. This wall was cracked in a manner
that made climbing easy. It was not necessary to tell either of
us to keep our hands full of mountain. We struck one point where
we were forced to turn back, but it did not take long to go around
and get above the obstacle that blocked our way.
About 500 feet higher we reached the top of the ridge at a point
where a vein of red and very rotten rock crossed. Our course lay
along the ridge and as there was no other choice, we had to cross
it. One side broke sheer away with no possible footing, the other
was a steep slope fifty or sixty feet ending with a cliff. A rope
would have been a great help here, but we had not taken one of this
trip. I believe it took us half an hour to cross that fifty foot
vein.
We had about 1,000 feet of easy climbing, from this point to the
top. Only a few places required the use of the hands. At eight-fifty
we were about seventy-five feet below the summit which was remarkably
fast climbing. It was 10.15 when we reached the top, as it took
us some time to find a way up, and we had stopped to get pictures
from below the summit.
We spent only a few minutes on top, leaving our record and a ptarmigan
feature which we found there, in an aluminum tube. We built a small
cairn on the peak and left the tube under it.
The view was spoiled somewhat by smoke, but about 4,000 feet of
Mount Rainier showed at all times, and occasionally Mount Baker
and Glacier Peak were above the clouds, and Mount Olympus and other
Olympic peaks were always in view. Seattle and Bremerton were not
visible, but for a while, part of Hood Canal was in sight.
After repeatedly cautioning each other to be doubly careful, we
started down. As the climb up had really been hard we decided to
go down the north or opposite side of the ridge. We regretted this
afterwards, but as we were both alive at the bottom it was probably
well we went that way. Once down neither of us was extremely eager
for another climb of the same mountain. Bob's trousers were sadly
in need of repair, or perhaps new trousers would have been more
in order.
From the north side we circled around to the spot where we had
camped the night before, and at 4 PM. we started down the Quilcene
River. Our supplies were rather short so we walked till 6 PM. with
all the speed we possessed. The evening meal consisted of one cup
of cooked oatmeal each with nothing but loaf sugar for trimmings.
Neither of us ever ate that night.
We were both tired but we spent some time bringing in firewood
for the night, for our bedding amounted to one single blanket each.
That was the worst night we had. I am sure neither of us slept at
all. It was a cold night to start with and there seemed to be no
place really sheltered from the wind which blew through the canyon.
The morning of the 27th, after a hearty breakfast of tea and three
slides of rye bread each, we started down the river at 5 am. It
was just 12 noon when we struck a bridge crossing the river. We
stopped at the bridge and got our our small supply of fishing tackle,
hoping to find a meal in the river.
About this time a troop of Boy Scouts arrived on the scene, and
in answer to our questions, told us it was three miles to the highway.
That sounded like food to us, so shouldering our packs we took the
trail and reached the road at 1 PM. Nothing was in sight to eat,
but we were lucky in getting a ride to Brinnon, where we over ate.
After lunch we hiked the thirteen miles to the Miner's Cabin for
our equipment, returning to Brinnon the following morning. We reached
home that afternoon, greatly pleased with that we had accomplished.