MOUNT SHUKSAN, situated in the northern part of Washington, about sixteen miles northeast of Mount Baker, was, so far as we could learn, never climbed until our ascent made in August, 1906.

The mountain is the highest point left of the primary upheaval and is a beautiful mass of igneous rock with cascade glaciers flowing outward on all sides, except the north, from a central snow field. On the northern side of this, and a thousand feet above the snow, rises a great black pinnacle forming the main summit.

The ascent was attempted first on August 1st by J.A. Lee, Rodney Glisan, E.G. Grinrod, W.M. Price and myself. We followed the ridge that leads to the mountain from the northwest until we were almost directly under the main pinnacle, but were compelled to turn back by an approaching storm, and the lateness of the hour.

Two days later Mr. Price and I attempted the ascent once more, going this time to the south and climbing along the face of the mountain until we came out on top of the main shoulder to the southwest, at an altitude of about 6500 feet, where we spent the night. By means of a rude brush shelter we were able to keep warm although we had no blankets.

On the following morning we continued up the ridge to the snow plateau above the lower pinnacles finding still, to the north, the black mass of the summit pile. The ascent of this rock pile was a rather difficult piece of rock-work that required over two hours.

On the summit we could find no trace of a previous ascent. No rocks had been disturbed, except where the lightning had struck them, and no record had been left. We left a record of the ascent in a glass jar under the cairn that we built, claiming the ascent in honor of the Sierra and Mazama Clubs of which we were members.

The view from the summit should be particularly fine but at this time was hidden by the smoke of forest fires and we could just make out the summit of Mount Baker and a few of the mountains in the range to the north.