n
the heart of the Olympics! Such will be the Mountaineer's camp in
Elwha basin at the head of Elwha river. Four streams unite here
and start the main stream that flows sixty miles to the straits.
Its valley thus affords a magnificent highway into the center of
the range.
The mountains at the head of the valley nearly encircle the basin,
leaving only a break to the east, where the river circles around
Mt. Dana.
Second only to Mt. Olympus, among the Olympics, these mountains
stand 4,000 feet above the camp, itself 3,300 feet, and their peaks
are clad in snow and ice. From the mountains directly above camp
the panorama of mountains stretches away on all sides in countless
hundreds of peaks.
In the distance, to the northward, is the summit of Mt. Angeles,
which is the first of the range to be seen to the east of the Elwha
as one leaves Port Angeles. Nearer and to the left are the snow
clad ridges that divide Boulder, Cat, Long and Goldie rivers, while
winding away to the southwest and south is the long dark valley
of the Elwha. To the eastward is the great wall of the coast range
which from the Sound hides all the rest of the range and creates
the idea that the Olympics is a long narrow ridge. Due east is the
summit of Constance, seemingly low, compared to the sea of peaks
which rise south of the Elwha and at the head of the Queets and
Quinault. Directly south of the crag of Mt. Meany with Mt. Seattle
at its left. To the right of Mt. Meany the Queets valley cuts a
dark channel southeast toward the Pacific. Beyond the Queets and
a little north is the massive bulk of Olympus itself. The remnant
of a once great plateau, it is separated from the main range by
the valleys of the Queets and Hoh rivers, the first in a valley
5,000 feet deep and the second one 7,000 feet. Its only connection
with the other peaks is the ridge that leads to the north-east which
forms the divide for the Elwha, Queets and Hoh rivers. The Elwha
does not reach Olympus, being cut off by the range forming Mt. Queets
and Mt. Meany.
From the main plateau a number of pinnacles rise above the field
of ice and snow, but one near the center appears considerably higher
than the others and this will probably prove to be the summit when
we reach the main mountain. The temporary camp for the climb will
be at some point along this ridge and the ascent made on either
the Queets of Hoh side of the ridge.
The committee did not find it practicable to attempt the ascent
of Mt. Olympus on the preliminary trip, because it was impossible
to be away from the pack horses longer than twelve hours. It was
not possible to climb the mountain in that time over the soft snows
that covered the range. The ascent did not appear to be very difficult
and can undoubtedly be made by all who wish to do so. The beautiful
meadows east of the mountain at the head of the Queets were covered
with snow, but ridges exposed to the warmth of the sun gave promise
of the wealth of flowers that would be found later on all mountain
slopes.
The group of mountains, the highest part of the Olympics, is little
known, more because it has been inaccessible than because of the
real difficulties of traveling through it. The only trails to the
upper Elwha have been the elk trails and the few who knew their
way among the labyrinth of these to the headwaters did not wish
others to share their knowledge, so no trails were blazed. A few
hours or days at most, and the calk marks of their horses shoes
were stamped out by other bands of elk and the trail lost again.
A slide and some fallen timber blocked even this trail and the
only way of reaching the upper Elwha was a trail over the high ridge
between Long and Goldie rivers. This crossed the divide at 5,900
feet and the steep grades make it impossible to pack supplies enough
to accommodate a party as large as the Mountaineers. Port Angeles
came to our aid and open a trail for ten miles into Press valley
and a new one for six miles at the head of the valley into Elwha
basin. But for this work it would have been impossible for our club
to have reached Mt. Olympus and because of it a permanent way will
have been opened into the region, one of the most beautiful in the
state.
Comparisons of mountains are impossible, but not one of the camping
spots has afforded so many beautiful spots for side trips. There
are four peaks that can be climbed in a single day from camp, and
from the summit of each the view is magnificent. Rugged mountains
are all around one, not distant and dwarfed as they are from the
summit of the great volcanoes.
FINAL PLANS
The first division will leave Seattle Wednesday morning, July 24th,
at 7:30 taking a lunch to eat on the steamer. They will reach Port
Angeles about 1:30, where there will be stages to accommodate all
who do not wish to walk to McDonald. This stage fare will be $1.00
each and those who wish to be accommodated should notify the secretary
at once, or when making application to go on the outing. The change
in boat schedule makes berths and meals on the boat unnecessary,
and there will be no other expenses on the trip in. The Outing Committee
will begin furnishing meals at McDonald. The distance from Port
Angeles to McDonald is ten miles and the walking good, so many will
undoubtedly prefer to walk.
The first day's tramp on the trail will be from McDonald to Geyser
Valley, a distance of eleven miles. The trail is through timber
the entire distance and is one of the features of the trip. Springs
break out among the rocks and for miles there is a mass of beautiful
ferns. Groups of frail maiden hair ferns stand three feet high and
they can be seen clinging among crevices in the rocks high up above
the trail.
The second camp of the party will be at Geyser Valley and members
will have the entire day to walk to this camp and will have only
their lunch to carry. This lunch will be issued to them after breakfast
at McDonald. The pack trail will accompany the party and each member
will be required to pack his own belongings ready to go on the horses
and deliver them to the packers. Beyond this he will have no care
of his personal effects, as they will be delivered at the next camp
early enough to enable all the make camp comfortable for the night.
The third camp will be at Elkhorn Flat between the Lillian and
the Lost rivers. The fourth camp near the mouth of the Godkin and
the fifth, the main camp, at Elwha basin.
The trail for the greater part of the distance follows the Elwha
Valley through a heavy growth of timber. At some points it is necessary
to leave the valley to avoid small canyons or to cross one of the
tributaries, but these rises are never more than a few hundred feet.
Beyond the Hayes there are no burns at all. The timber, for the
most part hemlock and white fir, stands in one great unscathed forest,
with such a canopy overhead that the sun can scarcely penetrate
and undergrowth languishes. This dense growth extends up the valley
until the basin is reached, where the growth changes to Alpine within
a hundred feet, and one steps across a branch of the Elwha into
a mountain meadow surrounded by high mountains.
The second division will leave Seattle Saturday, Aug. 3rd, in charge
of Prof. Henry Landes and will follow the same schedule as the first
division.
It has been found necessary to make the following additions and
changes in rules and regulations for the outing.
Only 25 pounds of dunnage can be taken with the party, the balance
must be delivered to the committee, on July 5th, at the City dock.
Two members can arrange to pack their bedding together in one dunnage
bag for the trip and can send their other effects in another dunnage
bag. This will relieve them of caring for their entire dunnage on
the trail and has been found necessary.
Everyone must provide calks enough to reset their shoes at least
twice while on the outing. Use No. 7 for the heels and No. 5 for
the soles. It will be necessary to have shoes well nailed with Hungarian
or hob-nails, and these should be in the ball of the foot and extend
back nearly to the heel.
The committee requests that no fire arms be carried. These is no
game that can be killed at this season and the promiscuous use of
fire arms during the outing cannot help but be a menace to other
members of the party. Also when bands of elk are sighted, as they
so frequently were on the preliminary trip, the temptation to try
just one shot would be very great. Should a member of our party
wound or kill one of these magnificent animals, in defiance of the
U.S. laws, it could be nothing but a disgrace to the club.
All women of the partyt who expect to go on side trips, or climb
any of the peaks, must be prepared to wear bloomers or better still
knickerbockers, as on all these trips no skirts will be allowed.
Final payments of outing deposit should be sent to the secretary
at the earliest convenience and must be in before July 20th.