Reprinted with permission

Route finding can be a sweaty, nerve-wracking business. Getting off route is intimidating. The possibility of finding yourself runout and lost on moves that are way harder than they are supposed to be is enough to give any sane climber an ulcer. Even if the climbing is not difficult, getting off-route on a long climb could slow you down and cause you an unexpected bivy or force you to leave some gear in retreat.

	Terra Johnson routefinding by Gary Yngve

While guidebooks and topo maps are important tools and part of any good trip plan, they should not be overly relied on. Your innate skills and experience in route finding are far more important.

See the big picture.
Figuratively and literally. Physically look at the route as you approach or scope it out ahead of time, whether it is the afternoon before from base camp or from another vantage point such as the peak/climb you did last week. Draw your own topo maps and make mental notes on sections that do not seem obvious.

Read the rock.
Look for major “weaknesses,” the path of least resistance. Sometimes you may have to link obvious features like crack systems with less straightforward bits such as roofs, traverses or face climbing. In addition to cracks, ledge systems, chimneys (big cracks), and arêtes (ridges) can all be paths of least resistance. Most early first ascents usually followed these types of features..

Aid climb.
If you are on a long alpine route, do not be afraid to use a little aid or clean aid to keep things moving – it is certainly better than an unplanned bivy

	Prusik Peak by Jim Ferris

Learn geology.
Certain rock types, where they are, and how they have been affected by weather can correlate to specific features that you may look for to make the climbing easier. For example, granite tends to have continuous crack systems running the whole length of the climb. In some areas, whatever type of rock you have may be uplifted to help or hinder climbing it. The Matterhorn, for example, is all down-sloping Schist and does not tend to have cut hand and footholds.

Tracking skills.
Besides reading the rock, snow, or ice, it is helpful to have good powers of observation. Look carefully to see where people have gone before. In the Alps, crampon scratch marks are a great clue that you are on route. Also look for fixed gear, worn patches of grass, less lichen, and other more subtle signs. But know the difference between on-route and someone else’s mistake!

Develop your on-sight route finding ability.
This is the final and most important point. Leave the topo or route description at home (or at least in the pack) and follow your instinct. On-sighting without a topo is super valuable and has a high learning curve. You will see quick improvement in all aspects of your route finding. May the force be with you!