photo by Shirley Rogers

"Time is of the essence." This phrase that is often put into real estate contracts should be the motto for climbers. Basic students and the rest of us as well need to be reminded that we must move reasonably fast to safely complete climbs and avoid unexpected hazards. This is clearly illustrated by those who climb glaciated peaks and need to avoid ice and rock falls caused by melting as the day gets warm. Likewise rock climbers need to beware of dallying too long even on days that seem blessed by postcard blue sky and perfect climbing conditions. The following illustrates the need for moving fast and identifies a technique that climb and rope leaders would be well advised to learn.

This past August I got my first opportunity to climb Prusik Peak in the Enchantments. After the arduous 10-mile and 5000 vertical feet hike to Gnome Tarn, I enjoyed camping at the base of Prusik pass with my climbing partners, Mike Heusdens and Bryant Miller. Because of the proximity of our camp to the base of the climb we didn't push for an early start. So around 9 a.m. we started our first pitch on the West Ridge route. Bryant led; Mike and I seconded. Instead of having the second drag a rope for belaying the third, Bryant belayed both of us up the pitch. The first two pitches of this route are low 5th class. As we started the exposed slab horn third pitch, the sky began to turn from blue perfection to puffy clouds. By the time we began the last pitch the clouds went from curious shapes to onerous black. The rain was coming, but how soon? Just as Bryant yelled, "On belay", the first drops started. I quickly shot up the crack and Mike followed just after I cleared the first 15 feet. By the time I reached the short chimney at the top the rocks were crackling from static electricity and the rain started coming down in buckets. By now the joy of summitting was supplanted by the need to get off the peak immediately. There was no time to sign the register, eat celebratory summit chocolate or even sneak a peek of the views below. There was only time to set the rappel anchor and get off before we became human lightning rods. Each lightning strike around us amplified this urgency. Adding to the discomfort it began to hail. This made it feel like walking on marbles on the ledges, as we rigged the rappels on the way down.

Within a short time we had rapped down to the base where we could walk back to camp. To quote Timmy Williams, "We cheated death again." But the lessons we learned from this climb are helpful for other climbers:

1. Never assume that you have ample time to climb just because you start with a beautiful morning. Thunderstorms or other adverse weather conditions can, will, and often do happen.
2. It is best to climb as quickly (and safely) as possible even when you think you have all day. We were lucky to have been climbing on a double belay system. This enabled us to move faster and enjoy the thrill of making it to the summit, even if we didn't get to enjoy the view.
3. Learn how to double belay. Because we didn't have to set up two separate belays for the 2nd and 3rd climbers, we were able to move more quickly and efficiently.