photo by Tom Beelman

Basic Climbs
Most Basic students must get on the roster of four to six climbs in order to successfully complete their three required climbs. Some students aren't so lucky. It takes some eight to ten attempts! Climbs are unsuccessful for a variety of reasons including weather, access difficulty, route conditions, lack of signup or because the party ran out of time or the leader was not available.

The Seattle Branch offered 204 Basic Climbs this past season as of October 15th. The overall success rate was 59% but this could change slightly if trip leaders who have not yet filed still submit their trip reports online or mail them to the clubhouse. Trip report information is crucial to determining the success and challenges with Basic Climbs.

Climbs on the east side of the Cascades tend to be more successful because the weather is often better. Less difficult peaks also have a higher success rate; for example, S. Early Winter Spire had a success rate of 86% compared to Mount Rainier's 28%. Some students complain that there are not enough climbs, yet 7 Basic climbs were cancelled because of lack of signup, and there were many more climbs that did not have full rosters. Perhaps you were on several of them. If you can be flexible on your objective and climbing schedule, there are more opportunities.

Some of you will take the intermediate course next year. Others will want to continue basic level climbing with the Club or with private groups. Most basic students climbed the Tooth (34 climbs, 53% success rate), Ingalls (17 climbs, 65% success rate), Kangaroo Temple (15 climbs, 60% success rate), or S. Early Winter Spire (14 climbs, 86% success rate) as their rock climb. Mt. Baker was the most popular glacier climb (13 climbs, 62% success rate) followed by Eldorado (7 climbs, 71% success rate). But, there are many other climbs that offer wonderful alpine experiences. You may want to look at basic level Club Climbs. They are designed for Basic graduates. After all, you don't always have to climb for credit! Have fun climbing.

photo by Steve Firebaugh

Intermediate Climbs
Seattle climb leaders signed up to lead over 130 Intermediate climbs during the past year. Thanks to each of you for sharing your time, energy, skills and experience with The Mountaineers.

We don't have final trip reports or success rates on all climbs yet, but alpine ice climbs have the highest chance of being weathered out (or being out of condition). Next highest seems to be climbs in the Cascade Pass area, which is no surprise to climbers who've awakened to white-outs hugging the northern Ptarmigan Traverse peaks and the mountains around Boston Basin.

On average this year, approximately 60% of Intermediate climbs were rock, and 40% were ice. Mountaineering-category climbs had little appeal this last year. The most popular rock climb was Liberty Bell's SW Face with 16 trips offered. A distant second at 5 trips was the West Ridge of Forbidden.

The most popular ice climb this year was the one-day North Face route on Observation Rock, which was scheduled for 12 trips during September and October. Later trips didn't go due to the high danger from rock fall. Roughly a third of Intermediate Ice climbs were water ice (mainly in the Banff area). Keyes Peak, Price Glacier route, was found to be in very good shape this year, contrary to rumors, and is back on the list of approved Ice climbs.

Alpine winter Intermediate climbs are most frequently led in the Snoqualmie Pass area, due to the easy access. The Tooth's South Face is an Intermediate Rock route in winter, and Chair's North Face offers a fine ice route when it is in shape. Each has had 2-4 trips offered the last couple of winters.