As I write this I read about yet another climbing rescue, most recently a rappel
accident on Index Town Wall. Before that was Hood and Rainier. Mountaineering rescues
and accidents have been playing out on television, newspapers, radio and the Internet.
Among climbers and the public, these accidents have been frequently discussed and
sometimes second-guessed. Talk show hosts ask who should pay. The accidents seem to
overwhelm the thousands of routine successes. The public scrutiny magnifies the danger
of climbing, and the public again asks us questions. Time to take stock, and reflect
on this.
The annual ñAccidents in North American Mountaineeringî is, for me, a riveting read,
usually consumed in one sitting when first received, and reread in bits later. More
than once I found myself reading about some accident and reflecting on experiences of
my own that did not result in an accident. But might have.
Some accidents have clear causes: a knot failure, an improperly secured harness, or
failure of a dubious anchor. After reading about those we can and should reaffirm the
need to check and recheck knots, harnesses, and anchors before committing our lives to
them. Other accidents seem to result from a series of events that act together. Judgment
comes into play, with perhaps a long series of small decisions finally leading to a
catastrophe.
At what point do weather conditions indicate the party should turn around? At what
point does snow steepness and conditions dictate it is time to belay? At what point
does the nature of the rock say scrambling should give way to belays? At what point
does the time of day and party pace indicate that the party should turn around short
of the summit?
Those are questions that have no single answer. Every member of the climbing party
affects those answers. As an individual, you can and should speak up when you feel the
need for a belay. Speak up if you have any doubts about an anchor to which you are going
to commit. Speak up if you feel a knot does not look right. Question the stability of
the cornice over the route if you have doubts. Temper enthusiasm for the climb and
desire for the summit with caution in considering party decisions. As an individual
party member, take seriously your responsibility for your own safety and to be competent
and fit for the climb at hand.
The questions resurface: Why do we climb? Why do we take what we must all admit,
are certain risks to attain a summit? On the surface climbing seems like such a
ridiculous sport, with little or no benefit to society. For me, I find the need to
challenge myself with the demands and rewards of climbing while sharing it with
partners who understand, is personally very enriching and also seductive. While we
cannot eliminate risk, we can evaluate it and do our best to avoid taking it
needlessly. Life itself is full of risks and we do not always know what they are.
The line between acceptable risk taking and recklessness is easily crossed. We can
cross it unaware.
Climb on, and climb as safely as you can.