Closure system
Laces provide the snuggest, most adjustable fit; however getting lace-ups on and off your foot can be tedious when bouldering or gym climbing. Velcro straps are becoming more popular and durable, and are usually the easiest models to put on and take off. Elastic slippers simply slip on; the design can be an advantage when you seek low weight and maximum sensitivity, and for crack climbing, since there are no laces or straps to snag.
" Slipper" is also a generic term for any lightweight model, whereas a "shoe" has a sturdier build. You’ll notice that some models in this reviewed are described as Velcro slippers and others as Velcro shoes.

Shape
“Last” is a term for the 3-dimensional shape of a shoe. You can gauge the last of a shoe by holding the front of the sole at eye level and looking down its length. Climbing shoes have three basic lasts: 1. Flat soled. 2. Cambered--the front half of the sole is twisted toward the big toe and the instep is higher than the outstep. 3. Down-turned--a cambered last where the arch of the shoe is raised and the front end lowered, so your big toe points downward. (You have to cram a foot tightly into many down-turned shoes to observe this "banana" effect.)
Shoes also have two basic types of toe-box shape: 1. Asymmetric: straight instep edge and a pronounced big toe point. 2. Rounded: a blunter, more symmetrical shape.

Uppers
Leather and suede breathe well and can stretch a half to over a full size, expediting break-in time and producing a custom-stretched fit. Synthetic uppers resist stretch and deformation, ensuring a shoe retains its shape and performance characteristics over time. Anticipate the likely amount of stretch when sizing a shoe.
Some shoes have thin linings that limit stretch and deformation, and can improve comfort. Unfortunately, they also reduce sensitivity and increase break-in time.

Rubber
Several companies proclaim their rubber as the stickiest, the most durable, or simply the best. Which rubber should you trust? Truth is, with the exception of the standout Stealth and Mad Rock’s Mad Rubber for pure friction (but not always edging ability because of its softness), we didn’t notice a sole in this review that performed significantly better or worse than the rest.

STYLE MATTERS
Climbing shoes are tools. You wouldn’t use a wooden mallet to pound a nail. But that’s effectively what you’re doing if you wear a stiff, flat- or rocker-soled shoe to monkey around the bouldering cave at your local gym. Believe me, you’ll climb a grade harder on steep plastic if you wear a sensitive, down-turned shoe. You need the right tool for the climbs you want to do.

To help you match the shoes in this review to your needs we have rated them on a scale of zero to five stars for three types of climbing: Steep rock, face climbing, and long routes. You can choose a specialized shoe with high marks for one style of climbing, or an all-around model with a wide enough spread of stars to cover all the bases.

Steep rock: Shoes that work well on steeply overhanging terrain--say more than 20 degrees beyond vertical--have flexible soles and thin (usually unlined) uppers, allowing you to feel and push against bumps, smears and blobs. They also have a down-turned last that focus weight onto the tip of your big toe, allowing you to grab even smeary holds. A secure, well-rubberized heel and rubber over the forefoot make heel hooks, toe drags, and other monkey maneuvers easier. Shoes scoring high marks for "steep rock" work well for overhanging gym climbs, boulder problems and sport routes.

Face climbing: Good face-climbing shoes allow you to stand confidently on the tiniest crystal, shallowest pocket or smallest edge. They have a cambered (but not fully downturned) last, focusing weight onto your big toe and the instep edge. The best designs are reasonably stiff but not so rigid that they preclude nimble footwork or make your feet numb to the rock. Keep in mind that the stiffness of a face-climbing shoe hinders its ability to climb finger and hand cracks.

Long routes: Good long-route shoes provide all-day comfort, and are sturdy and supportive enough to wear while scrambling down from the top of a cliff. They have a stiff, supportive sole and a flat, foot-pampering last. Choose a shoe with high marks in this category if you like to climb long traditional routes. Novice climbers (indoors or out) will also appreciate the comfort, durability, and support of this style of shoe.

Crack climbs: We haven’t rated shoes for crack climbing since different widths of crack favor different styles of shoe. Wide cracks (hands and up) are easier (and less painful) in a supportive, flat-soled shoe--i.e. one with high marks for long routes. In contrast, you’ll have more success on thin cracks in a more flexible shoe with a low-volume toe profile, flat last, and a generous swath of rubber across the top of the toe box.

GET FIT
My all-time favorite steep-rock shoe is FiveTen’s V10. Sized right (i.e. super tight), it feels like it has been spray-painted onto my foot. I raved so much about the V10 that my friend, Lee, bought a pair. Big mistake. His heel wouldn’t stay down and the upper bagged out creating a farting air pocket in the arch of the shoe. Listening to him moan, you’d think he’d strapped a dog turd to his foot.

The lesson: Other climbers’ opinions will only tell you so much. That’s why we employed multiple shoe testers, ensuring each shoe found a foot to fit it. Ultimately, the unique shape of your foot will determine which shoe works best for you. Here’s our advice for sizing and fitting shoes:

Try before you buy. As many models as you can. Rock shoe demo days are a great opportunity.

Ignore shoe sizes. I think shoe manufacturers dream these numbers up in between pulls on the hookah. During this review I discovered the right-sized rock shoe for me varied between the extremes of U.S. 9.5 (FiveTen) and U.S. 6.5 (La Sportiva).

Size em tight. The idea is to eliminate dead space. Multi-pitch shoes should be snug. Steep rock and face-climbing models should be as tight as you can go without causing pain. For crack climbing, toes flat is the only way to survive the day.

Anticipate stretch. Unlined leather models can expand a full size or more.

Fill the front. Your toes should fill the toe box with your big toe directly over the toe point and instep edge. Asymmetric toe boxes provide better big-toe focus, but if your big toe is shorter than your second toe, a rounded toe box may give a better fit.

Park your rear. The fit of the heel cup is equally important. Your heel should be fully seated and locked in place. A heel cup that’s too high will chafe your ankle bones and/or your Achilles tendon, and generally make your life hell.

Women’s shoes. Women typically have slighter feet than men, with narrow, shallow heels and higher arches. If this sounds like your foot, consider Scarpa’s Eclipse Lady, Evolv’s RockStar and Acopa’s Aurora (all reviewed here), or one of several other women’s-specific models on the market.