Decision Points for Accident-free Climbs
Preventing injuries while climbing involves lots of decisions.
Choosing a route within your party’s abilities (both technically
and physically) is just a start. Once the trip is underway, you
make one decision after another that will determine your success
(that is, returning safely, with the summit as a bonus). The beginning
of the season is a good time to remember two conscious decisions
for spring climbing: When to get out your ice ax and when to put
on your helmet.
Ice Axes: With the popularity of trekking poles, climbers sometimes
wait too long to get out their ice axes. I can think of two cases
on Mountaineers trips when a climber slipped and could not self-arrest
because his ice ax was on his pack. One of these resulted in an
accident that required rescue. So the first decision point is saying, “Let’s
get out our ice axes.” This applies to everyone in the party.
You make the decision based on how steep and hard the snow is and
where you would end up if you could not stop a slide.
Helmets: We always put on our helmets when we rope up. That is
obvious. However, a helmet can also protect your head on approaches
and descents involving loose rock or exposed terrain. Again this
is a conscious decision that applies to everyone in the party.
At some point we say, “Let’s put on our helmets.” A
case comes to mind where this action – it was actually “Let’s
keep our helmets on” – protected a climber’s
head during a fall down a snow-filled gully. As a result she could
walk out. The alternative might have been a cold and painful night
(or worse).
Climb leaders will generally make these calls. Of course others
in the party can and should participate in the decision. And on
your own trips you will make these decisions each time. Best wishes
for a safe climbing season.
Living With a Regulated Wilderness
Stricter National Park and Wilderness Area rules are making it
harder to plan trips to the mountains. There are permits, quotas,
and party-size limits to contend with. As Mountaineers members
we have an obligation to abide by these rules. Here is what that
means when we plan our trips:
- Know party-limit sizes and stay within them (they vary by jurisdiction
and area). Note that two Mountaineers parties, even if they are
from different branches, are considered as one party. We do a
lot to prevent these scheduling conflicts, but if you find yourself
on a route with another Mountaineers party you need to decide
if party-size limits apply and make alternate plans if they do.
- Know if you need a permit and obtain one if you do (and if
you can’t get one, make alternate plans).
- Camp in areas designated areas if you are required to do so.
- Practice “Leave no trace” techniques.
Whether we like it or not, our individual actions will impact how
the Park Service and Forest Service view us all. Let’s
build a tradition of being model wilderness travelers.
