We have all learned to tie and use the double-fisherman knot to join two ropes for a double rope rappel. Its advantages: it’s strong, trustworthy, easily recognizable, and it also tightens upon itself when loaded. Its disadvantages are that it is difficult to untie after weighted or when frozen, and the tied knot has an abrupt edge which can get caught on ledges.

Some more experienced climbers have chosen, instead, to use the cleaner double strand overhand knot with ten inch tails to join two ropes of similar diameter. It’s the preferred UIAA method, faster to tie and easier to untie, easily recognizable, and features a perfectly flat surface on one side for snagless pulling, so your rope is less likely to get stuck, a real danger when doing multiple rappells. If you need to rappel a whole lot of pitches after a long day, your tired, sore hands will really appreciate it.

One might ask if an overhand knot is okay, might a Figure 8 be even better? NO NO NO! A THOUSAND TIMES, NO! Do not for ANY REASON join the strands together with a double strand figure 8. If you do, and you weight the rope, THEN YOU RISK KNOT FAILURE FROM PULLING THROUGH. This was probably the cause of one man’s death in Zion last May. What happens with a Figure 8 knot is that it rolls over and off the ends, and you’re TOAST (Remember back to Dave Shema’s infamous Basic lecture?) If you are interested in testing and data, see Tom Moyer’s results.

Both the overhand and Figure 8 have been called a European Death Knot when used to join two ropes for double rope rappels. In the case of a Figure 8, it most definitely is. With the overhand, probably not. Be sure to back up the overhand and leave long tails.

If you are not sure but may want to safely try it, when you have a rappel where the rope is unlikely to get stuck, you might tie an overhand with long tails so you can back it up with your traditional double fisherman knot. IF you choose to use an overhand knot for double rope rappels, make it the best one you can with smooth parallel strands. Dress the knot by individually pulling each of four strands, maybe twice or more. Back it up with another one and repeat by dressing the backup. Leave long tails. Be safe out there: think about your knots.