Safety Notes 2003

	photo by Pat O'Donnell

We thank those who have forwarded details, either via trip reports or unofficial and private channels, to the subcommittee. Below are the details. We have taken the liberty of suggesting some lessons one might draw from each incident.

Accidents on Climbs

Tooth/SW Face
An intermediate student fell on lead while attempting a “5.7 corner that had some lichen and moss,” receiving a leg cut requiring 2 stitches. (Another party member twisted an ankle on the approach.) All walked out.
Lesson:
Leading is dangerous; also, there might be reasons why less-popular climbs are less popular. Be prepared for more adventure.

Near-misses on Climbs

Chiwawa Peak/Lyman Glacier:
Rock and ice fall strafed a party about 10:00 AM. Club records indicate that rock and ice fall are not uncommon on this route
Lesson:
Read the trip reports and note the warnings. Starting early and moving quickly are, as always, good ideas on ice climbs, particularly on Chiwawa.

S. Early Winter Spire/S. Arete
A Basic Student lost the grip on the rope while rappelling a blocky section. Student was caught immediately by a “fireman’s belay” from below.
Lesson:
Obviously, keep your brake hand on the rappel rope. Consider the autoblock for awkward terraine. Consider shouting up this suggestion to party members above if you experience some difficulty on your rappel. If you can do so without exposure to rockfall, belaying a rappel from below is more than a courtesy, it may prevent an incident.

Stuart/W. Ridge:
An Intermediate student looped some webbing around a rock feature; the loop was reportedly not quite big enough, and did not quite fit around (and hence below) the widest part of the rock feature. Another student noticed this, thought it might slip off, and voiced a concern. The anchor was improved.
Lesson:
Never compromise anchor integrety for the sake of speed.

Accidents on field trips

Water Ice:

Ouray
An instructor top-roping a WI4 route in Ouray knocked lose a chunk of ice that hit himself in the jaw, opening a gash. After self-examination, the instructor finished the route. The wound was treated by medical professionals stationed at the Ouray Ice Park, and did not require stitches.
Lesson:
This serves as a reminder as to why we wear helmets and recommend eye protection while water ice climbing. While not an issue here, falling ice is an expected part of the environment.

Banff
A student fell while attempting to lead a WI3+ ice feature at Balfour Wall, Banff National Park. The student broke both ankles, and was evacuated by helicopter.

Intermediate Course:

Two students sustained minor injuries at the Intermediate Ropes & Anchors field trip. One student apparently lost footing while attempting a standing belay (at the belay towers) and fell heavily.

Two students were injured while learning to lead at the Clamshell Cave area of Icicle creek during an Intermediate Rock I field trip. One student sprained an ankle. The other student broke one ankle and sprained the other. This second student was carried out by the combined effort of students and instructors.

An instructor took a leader fall on Icicle buttress during Intermediate Rock II and got scraped up, but walked away. We know who you are!

Lessons:
Students should not push their limits on field trips. Instead the field trip environment should provide opportunity for practice in new skills of technique, placing pro and becoming comfortable on the sharp end while at difficulties that are well below the student’s maximum.

In summary, climbs were more accident free than field trips in 2003. However, rest assured that as the screws are removed from all those broken ankles, they will be reapplied to field trip leaders in an effort to reduce the number of incidents in 2004.