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Water Ice Climbing

This web page is provided by the Seattle Mountaineers Water Ice Climbing Subcommittee. The committee's mission is "Facilitate a vital and active water ice climbing community within the club". To report problems or contribute content please contact Jeff Street at jeffstrt@verizon.net.

News and Articles

Events and Activites

Courses and Seminars

Online Resources


Water Ice Climbing Mid-Season Mixer - Wed Feb 6th 7pm @ Clubhouse in the Fireside room

Whether you are new to ice climbing or and old hand, please come mix with your fellow ice climbers, and make some new friends and partners, and climbing plans for the remainder of the season. All are welcome. We'll chat and sip the provided liquid refreshments for awhile while watching a communal slide show then listen to a presentation by Mike Maude.
Sign-up not required.

7 pm -Social Hour + SLIDESHOW: "Best of Ice Season (so far)".
NOTE: This is a communal slideshow. Please send me (jeffstrt@verizon.net) 3-4 of your best photos preferably hi-res with captions (include location and route etc).
8 pm -PRESENTATION: "Leading on Ice: Double Rope Technique and Other Considerations" by Mike Maude

Questions? Contact Jeff Street at jeffstrt@verizon.net


Dry Tooling Play Night - Wed Dec 5th 6pm @ Rex's House

Meet in Rex's garage and have at it on his indoor drytooling wall complete with top ropes. You will need a helmet, harness, assorted top-roping belay equipment, and ice tools of your choice. NO crampons! The best footware is rubber-soled slippers: tennis shoes will probably work, boots are way over kill. Rock shoes would be excellent, but overkill and the discomfort is not worth it. Temps are typical outdoor temps: gloves are generally not useful, and I climb bare-handed and use a lot of chalk.

For more details contact Rex Andrew at rx.andrew@ieee.org


Water Ice Climbing Season Kickoff Mixer - Wed Nov 7th 7pm @ clubhouse

Are you interested in water ice climbing? Or maybe you're just curious and want to find out more. All are welcome. Come mix with other like minded people, make some friends, find some climbing partners, and get in on the planning process for our first outings of the season. We'll chat and sip the provided liquid refreshments for awhile and then watch the presentation "Early Season Ice in Hyalite and Banff" hosted by Tom Lewis. Come get the low down on these two excellent places where the ice climbing starts early. Sign-up not required.

Questions? Contact Jeff Street at jeffstrt@verizon.net


Hyalite Canyon, Montana Outing - Nov 21-25

You are invited to join us in Bozeman, MT on Thanksgiving for ice climbing in nearby Hyalite Canyon. Come with a partner and lead climb or top rope semi-independently during the day and hot tub, dine, socialize and swap war stories during the evenings. The group will climb together at a beginner/intermediate site on Thursday and then climb independently on Friday and Saturday. Phil Kelley and three others will be driving to Bozeman on Wednesday Nov 21st and will climb Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, returning home on Sunday Nov 25th. Come on out to the Bozeman Ramada Inn on Wednesday or Thursday and join us (we have a couple of rooms reserved to share). We'll organize into additional carpools as more sign up. The Ramada Inn has a pool and hot tub plus and free continental breakfast. A room with two queen beds is $75/night. The drive takes 9-12 hours depending on conditions.

For more information on ice climbing in Hyalite Canyon see the online Hyalite Canyon Climbing Guide or the guide book Winter Dance by Joe Josephson.

Questions? Contact Phil Kelley at philk@qwest.net


Ouray Ice Park Orientation/Play Day - Jan 20

Joe Binder and Anne Meegan are planning a personal ice climbing trip to Ouray, CO with friends Sat 1/19/08 to Wed 1/23/08. They are offering a play day/orientation to climbing in the park (suggested areas for climbing, basics of top rope anchors & safety, top roped climbing) on Sunday January 20th. This day is intended for people who've taken the "Intro to Ice Climbing" course, Intermediate Alpine Climbing Ice field trips, or have equivalent beginner/intermediate ice climbing experience. The Ouray Ice Park is an ideal place for beginner/intermediates to get lots of ice climbing practice because the park offers hundreds of easy to access top ropeable ice climbs at every difficulty level. Find yourself a partner(s) from amongst your friends or members of the Mountaineers water ice climbing community and make your own arrangements to come down to ice climb in Ouray and take advantage of this hosted introduction to the park. This is a one day structured event and then you'll be prepared to climb on your own in the park after that, although there probably will be opportunities climb more together and to socialize in the evenings.

Questions? Need more information to make a decision? Please contact Anne Meegan at ammeegan@gmail.com for more details. Anne can also provide general information re: estimated costs, travel to Ouray (via Montrose, CO), lodging, gear to bring, where to get the best latte in Ouray etc.

Looking for a climbing and/or housing partner for Ouray? Post a message in the Ouray 2008 Online Forum.

For more information on climbing in the Ouray Ice Park see www.ourayicepark.com.


Ouray, Colorado Outing - Jan 20-27

Jena Gilman is leading a personal small group ice climbing outing to Ouray, CO with friends on Sun. Jan 20th thru Sun. Jan 27. She currently has three spaces available in the Alpenglow condo in Ouray that she is kindly offering, on a first come first serve basis, to members of the Mountaineers water ice climbing community. If there is more interest than that she can probably get more space. This outing will be a low-key mostly top-roping oriented group event suitable for people who have had at least one ice climbing experience (such as the recently offered Intro to Ice Climbing weekends).

Questions? Contact Jena Gilman at fgilman@aol.com.

Looking for a climbing and/or housing partner for Ouray? Post a message in the Ouray 2008 Online Forum.

For more information on climbing in the Ouray Ice Park see www.ourayicepark.com.


Lilloette, BC Outing - Feb 16-18

You are invited to join us in Lilloette, BC on Presidents' Day weekend for ice climbing. Come with a partner and lead climb or top rope semi-independently during the day and hot tub, dine, socialize and swap war stories during the evenings. We are staying at the Mile-0 Motel (we have a couple of rooms reserved to share). My self and Jeff Street will be driving to Lillooet on the morning of Saturday Feb 16th and plan to climb Saturday afternoon, Sunday, and Monday morning before returning on Monday afternoon/evening. We have room for two more in our car and welcome others to drive up independently and join us for Saturday afternoon climbing and/or at the Mile-0 Motel on Saturday evening. The drive takes about 7 hours depending on conditions.

For more information about ice climbing in the Lillooet area see the web site West Coast Ice or the book The Climbers Guide to West Coast Ice by Don Serl.

Interested in coming along? Questions? Contact Anne Meegan at ammeegan@gmail.com.


Banff, Canada Outing - Mar 5-9

You are invited to join us at the Lake Louise Alpine Centre Hostel for 3 days of ice climbing in nearby areas. Come with a partner and lead climb semi-independently during the day and hot tub, dine, socialize and swap war stories during the evenings. We will organize into sub-groups based on skill level and interests and head out to different area's each day. We will be driving to Lake Louise on Wednesday Mar 5th and will climb Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, returning home on Sunday Mar 9th. We'll organize into additional carpools as more sign up. The Lake Louise Hostel has both a resturant and self serve kitchen dining room. For your convience we have beds for 12 reserved, $27 per person per night. The drive to Lake Louise takes about 12 hours in good conditions.

Planned group social activities include:

  • Wed Mar 5th - Social Hour in the Lodge Lounge @ 8:00PM
  • Fri Mar 7th - Group Dinner in the Lodge Self Serve Kitchen/Dining Hall @ 7:00pm

For more information on ice climbing in the Banff area see www.dowclimbing.com or the guide book Waterfall Ice Climbs in the Canadian Rockies by Joe Josephson.

Interested in coming along? Questions? Contact Jeff Street at jeffstrt@verizon.net


Introduction to Ice Climbing

Explore the world of vertical ice climbing in this new introductory seminar! One evening in the classroom and two full days on the ice will provide you with a solid foundation in efficient movement on steep and varied ice, understanding ice quality and strength, constructing top rope anchors, gear selection, and safety considerations specific to ice climbing. A small class size and top-roped setting will help ensure a fun, personalized, and safe learning environment.

Upon completion of the seminar, students will have the skills necessary to follow an experienced leader on vertical ice routes, construct top-rope anchors, and move efficiently on steep ice terrain. Students will also have the opportunity to join the Mountaineers ice climbing community on winter outings to some of the area's ice climbing destinations.

The seminar is intended for club members with little or no exposure to ice climbing; however, the ability to safely belay and rappel is required. Club members who have completed the Basic Climbing program, any of the crag climbing courses, or have equivalent experience are encouraged to join!

Seminar fee is $40.

Equipment Required:
Ropes are provided but personal climbing equipment (harness, helmet, crampons, ice axes, etc ) are not. Purchase, rent, or borrow the required equipment. Alpine ice gear can suffice for the Mt Baker field trip. More details about the personal climbing equipment required will be provided at the Oct 3rd Classroom Meeting. If you have questions please contact Joe Binder (
binder.joe@gmail.com).

Curriculum and Schedule for Fall/Winter 2007:

  • Classroom Session - Wed Sept 19
    Join us for an informal classroom session to see what ice climbing in the Northwest is all about. We'll give you an overview of the climbing opportunities the area has to offer, cover the logistics for the field trip, and give you a chance to check out some of the gear you'll need to borrow, rent, or steal for the field trip
  • Field trip at Mt Baker - Sun October 13-14 or 27-28
    We'll spend a weekend at Mt Baker climbing everything from low-angle. to moderate. to vertical. even overhanging ice! A small group and close proximity to camp will ensure that you have ample time to climb. Students must attend one weekend (Sat/Sun) with an overnight camp on the lower mountain.

Eligibility and How to Join:

The seminar limited to 18 people. Any club member with the ability to safely belay and rappel is encouraged to join! Completion of the Basic Climbing course, any of the crag climbing courses, or equivalent experience is accepted. Please email Joe Binder ( binder.joe@gmail.com) if you're interested!

Questions? Contact Joe Binder at binder.joe@gmail.com.


Water Ice Climbing Course

NOTE: This course is not available winter 2007/2008. This is a great course but Mike Maude has retired from running it and we have not yet found someone who wants to take on this large of a commitment. We hope to offer this course next year.

The Water Ice Course covers all of the techniques and equipment required for modern water ice and mixed climbing, including clothing and equipment, training, ice formations, steep ice, and mixed climbing/dry tooling techniques, screw placements, anchors, leading and swinging leads on steep ice. The course consists of three lectures, three weekend field trips, and two week long trips. Of special note, the Ouray trip culminates in the Ouray Ice Festival. The Ouray trip is a prerequisite for the Banff trip, which can be taken in a second year. Graduates of the course will be able to swing leads on moderate (WI-3) multi-pitch ice climbs.

Eligibility:

Course is limited to 16, and limited to members of the Leader's List, Intermediate graduates, or Intermediate students who have completed their ice field trips and the bulk of their Intermediate Climbs. Climbing experience outside the Mountaineers will also be taken into consideration. Completion of MOFA is required.

Course Fee:

$120. Substantial additional cost will be incurred in travel, though we try to strike a balance between cost and convenience. Airfare and lodging in Ouray averaged $600 per person in 2002. Lodging in Banff in the Lake Louise Hostel was $110 per person.

How to Register:

During the registration period, complete the course registration form and mail it with the course fee to The mountaineers, 300 3rd Ave W, Seattle, WA 98119.

Questions? Contact Jeff Streetat jeffstrt@verizon.net.


Introduction to Mixed Climbing

The objective of this seminar is to learn and master mixed climbing/dry tooling techniques in a top roped setting. In this seminar we will not really be teaching you but rather we will all be teaching ourselves and each other. We will get together for one evening in the classroom and then three individual full days in the field. This will all happen in late october and november when it's too cold and wet to rock climb and there's no snow or ice yet for climbing or skiing. Besides learning mixed climbing this should be a great way to get fit for the ice season. Come learn and practice together with us!

Seminar fee is $20.

Equipment Required: Ropes are provided but personal climbing equipment (harness, helmet, crampons, ice axes, etc ) are not.

Curriculum and Schedule for Fall 2007

  • Classroom Session - Tues Oct 30th
    Join us for an informal classroom session where we'll get to know each other, present an overview of drytooling and mixed climbing techniques, discuss equipment, and the logistics of the field trips, etc.
  • Top Roping Field Trips - Sat Nov 3,10,17
    We'll spend three or more individual days at various dry tooling top roping sites working on our skills and fitness. It is not required to attend all of these.

Eligibility and How to Join:

This seminar is limited to 12 people and is intended for club members with prior ice climbing experience but anyone with the ability to safely belay and rappel can join. Please contact Jeff Street (jeffstrt@verizon.net) if you're interested!

Questions? Contact Jeff Street at jeffstrt@verizon.net.