This web page is provided by the Seattle Mountaineers Water Ice Climbing
Subcommittee. The committee's mission is "Facilitate a vital and active water ice climbing community
within the club". To report problems or contribute content please contact Jeff Street
at jeffstrt@verizon.net.
News and Articles
- 02/27/08 - TR: Late-Season Canadian Rockies Ice by Bruce Frank
- 02/27/08 - TR: Lillooet Ice - Feb 23-24, 2008 by Jeff Street
- 02/20/08 - TR: Lillooet Ice Outing - Feb 16-18, 2008 by Jeff Street
- 02/13/08 - TR: Strobach Mtn Ice - Feb 11, 2008 by Jeff Street
- 02/05/08 - TR: Chinnok Pass Ice - Feb 2, 2008 by Andrew Coutant
- 02/05/08 - TR: Banks Lake Ice - Feb 2-3, 2008 by John Angulo and Jeff Street
- 01/30/08 - TR: "The Great White Icicle" - Little Cotton Wood Canyon, Utah - Jan 24, 2008 by Andrew Coutant
- 01/30/08 - TR: "Stairway to Heavan" - Provo Canyon, Utah - Jan 22, 2008 by Andrew Coutant
- 01/29/08 - TR: "The Cable" - Banks Lake, WA - Jan 26, 2008 by Peter Heinz
- 01/28/08 - TR: Vantage Ice - Jan 27th, 2008 by Jeff Street
- 01/28/08 - TR: Umptanum Falls Ice - Jan 19th, 2008 by Andrew Coutant
- 01/24/08 - TR: Ouray Ice Park, Colorado by Tom Lewis
- 01/18/08 - TR: Strobach Mtn Ice - Jan 12, 2008 by Jeff Street
- 01/07/08 - TR: Lillooet Ice - Jan 5-6, 2008 by Jeff Street
- 01/07/08 - Announcement: Ice Climbing Mid-Season Mixer - Wed Feb 6
- 01/07/07 - TR: Boulder Colorado, Clear Creek Canyon Ice - Jan 6, 2008 by Andrew Coutant
- 01/07/07 - TR: Ouray Multipitch Ice - Jan. 1-2, 2008 by David Johnson
- 01/03/07 - TR: Lillooet Ice - Dec 27-31, 2007 by Jeff Street
- 01/03/08 - TR: Bozeman Ice / Hyalite and Pine Creek 12/30/07-1/1/08 by Tom Lewis
- 12/21/07 - Announcement: Ice Climbing Play Days, Jan 12 & 13
- 12/18/07 - TR: Bozeman, MT - Dec 15-18, 2007 by Ted Baughman
- 12/15/07 - TR: Hidden Lake - Dec 15, 2007 by Phil Kelley
- 12/15/07 - TR: Alpental Bryant Buttress - Dec 15, 2007 by Andrew Coutant
- 12/12/07 - Announcement: Congradulations New WI Course Grads!
- Read archived news items
Events and Activites
Courses and Seminars
Online Resources
Water Ice Climbing Mid-Season Mixer - Wed Feb 6th 7pm @ Clubhouse in the Fireside room
Whether you are new to ice climbing or and old
hand, please come mix with your fellow ice climbers, and make some new
friends and partners, and climbing plans for the remainder of the season. All
are welcome. We'll chat and sip the provided liquid refreshments for awhile
while watching a communal slide show then listen to a presentation by Mike Maude.
Sign-up not required.
| 7 pm - | Social Hour + SLIDESHOW: "Best of Ice Season (so far)".
NOTE: This is a communal slideshow. Please send me (jeffstrt@verizon.net) 3-4 of your best photos preferably hi-res with captions (include location and route etc).
|
8 pm - | PRESENTATION: "Leading on Ice: Double Rope Technique and Other Considerations" by Mike Maude |
Questions? Contact Jeff Street at jeffstrt@verizon.net
Dry Tooling Play Night - Wed Dec 5th 6pm @ Rex's House
Meet in Rex's garage and have at it on his indoor drytooling wall complete
with top ropes. You will need a helmet, harness, assorted top-roping belay
equipment, and ice tools of your choice. NO crampons! The best footware is
rubber-soled slippers: tennis shoes will probably work, boots are way over
kill. Rock shoes would be excellent, but overkill and the discomfort is not
worth it. Temps are typical outdoor temps: gloves are generally not useful, and
I climb bare-handed and use a lot of chalk.
For more details contact Rex Andrew at rx.andrew@ieee.org
Water Ice Climbing Season Kickoff Mixer - Wed Nov 7th 7pm @ clubhouse
Are you interested in water ice climbing? Or maybe
you're just curious and want to find out more. All are welcome. Come mix with
other like minded people, make some friends, find some climbing partners, and
get in on the planning process for our first outings of the season. We'll chat
and sip the provided liquid refreshments for awhile and then watch the
presentation "Early Season Ice in Hyalite and Banff" hosted by
Tom Lewis. Come get the low down on these two excellent places where the ice
climbing starts early. Sign-up not required.
Questions? Contact Jeff Street at jeffstrt@verizon.net
Hyalite Canyon, Montana Outing - Nov 21-25
You are invited to join us in Bozeman, MT on Thanksgiving for ice climbing in
nearby Hyalite Canyon. Come with a partner and lead climb or top rope
semi-independently during the day and hot tub, dine, socialize and swap war
stories during the evenings. The group will climb together at a
beginner/intermediate site on Thursday and then climb independently on Friday
and Saturday. Phil Kelley and three others will be driving to Bozeman
on Wednesday Nov 21st and will climb Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, returning
home on Sunday Nov 25th. Come on out to the Bozeman Ramada Inn on Wednesday or
Thursday and join us (we have a couple of rooms reserved to share). We'll
organize into additional carpools as more sign up. The Ramada Inn has a pool
and hot tub plus and free continental breakfast. A room with two queen beds is
$75/night. The drive takes 9-12 hours depending on conditions.
For more information on ice climbing in Hyalite Canyon see the
online Hyalite Canyon Climbing Guide or the guide
book
Winter Dance by Joe Josephson.
Questions? Contact Phil Kelley at philk@qwest.net
Ouray Ice Park Orientation/Play Day - Jan 20
Joe Binder and Anne Meegan are planning a personal ice
climbing trip to Ouray, CO with friends Sat 1/19/08 to Wed 1/23/08. They are
offering a play day/orientation to climbing in the park (suggested areas for
climbing, basics of top rope anchors & safety, top roped climbing) on
Sunday January 20th. This day is intended for people who've taken the "Intro to
Ice Climbing" course, Intermediate Alpine Climbing Ice field trips, or have
equivalent beginner/intermediate ice climbing experience. The Ouray Ice Park is
an ideal place for beginner/intermediates to get lots of ice climbing practice
because the park offers hundreds of easy to access top ropeable ice climbs at
every difficulty level. Find yourself a partner(s) from amongst your friends or
members of the Mountaineers water ice climbing community and make your own
arrangements to come down to ice climb in Ouray and take advantage of this
hosted introduction to the park. This is a one day structured event and then
you'll be prepared to climb on your own in the park after that, although there
probably will be opportunities climb more together and to socialize in the
evenings.
Questions? Need more information to make a decision?
Please contact Anne Meegan at ammeegan@gmail.com for more
details. Anne can also provide general information re: estimated costs, travel
to Ouray (via Montrose, CO), lodging, gear to bring, where to get the best
latte in Ouray etc.
Looking for a climbing and/or housing partner for Ouray? Post a message in
the Ouray 2008 Online Forum.
For more information on climbing in the Ouray Ice Park see www.ourayicepark.com.
Ouray, Colorado Outing - Jan 20-27
Jena Gilman is leading a personal small group ice
climbing outing to Ouray, CO with friends on Sun. Jan 20th thru Sun. Jan 27.
She currently has three spaces available in the Alpenglow condo in Ouray that
she is kindly offering, on a first come first serve basis, to members of the
Mountaineers water ice climbing community. If there is more interest than that
she can probably get more space. This outing will be a low-key mostly
top-roping oriented group event suitable for people who have had at least one
ice climbing experience (such as the recently offered Intro to Ice Climbing
weekends).
Questions? Contact Jena Gilman at fgilman@aol.com.
Looking for a climbing and/or housing partner for Ouray?
Post a message in the Ouray 2008 Online Forum.
For more information on climbing in the Ouray Ice Park
see www.ourayicepark.com.
Lilloette, BC Outing - Feb 16-18
You are invited to join us in Lilloette, BC on
Presidents' Day weekend for ice climbing. Come with a partner and lead climb or
top rope semi-independently during the day and hot tub, dine, socialize and
swap war stories during the evenings. We are staying at the Mile-0 Motel (we
have a couple of rooms reserved to share). My self and Jeff Street will be
driving to Lillooet on the morning of Saturday Feb 16th and plan to climb
Saturday afternoon, Sunday, and Monday morning before returning on Monday
afternoon/evening. We have room for two more in our car and welcome others to
drive up independently and join us for Saturday afternoon climbing and/or at
the Mile-0 Motel on Saturday evening. The drive takes about 7 hours depending
on conditions.
For more information about ice climbing in the Lillooet area see the
web site West Coast Ice
or the book The Climbers Guide to West Coast Ice by Don Serl.
Interested in coming along? Questions? Contact Anne Meegan
at ammeegan@gmail.com.
Banff, Canada Outing - Mar 5-9
You are invited to join us at the Lake
Louise Alpine Centre Hostel for 3 days of ice climbing in nearby areas.
Come with a partner and lead climb semi-independently during the day and hot
tub, dine, socialize and swap war stories during the evenings. We will organize
into sub-groups based on skill level and interests and head out to
different area's each day. We will be driving to Lake Louise on
Wednesday Mar 5th and will climb Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, returning home
on Sunday Mar 9th. We'll organize into additional carpools as more sign
up. The Lake Louise Hostel has both a resturant and self serve kitchen dining
room. For your convience we have beds for 12 reserved, $27 per person per
night. The drive to Lake Louise takes about 12 hours in
good conditions.
Planned group social activities include:
- Wed Mar 5th - Social Hour in the Lodge Lounge @ 8:00PM
- Fri Mar 7th - Group Dinner in the Lodge Self Serve Kitchen/Dining Hall @ 7:00pm
For more information on ice climbing in the Banff area see
www.dowclimbing.com
or the guide book
Waterfall Ice Climbs in the Canadian Rockies by Joe Josephson.
Interested in coming along? Questions? Contact Jeff Street at jeffstrt@verizon.net
Introduction to Ice Climbing
Explore the world of vertical ice climbing in this new introductory seminar! One
evening in the classroom and two full days on the ice will provide you with a
solid foundation in efficient movement on steep and varied ice, understanding
ice quality and strength, constructing top rope anchors, gear selection, and
safety considerations specific to ice climbing. A small class size and top-roped setting
will help ensure a fun, personalized, and safe learning environment.
Upon completion of the seminar, students will have the skills necessary to follow an
experienced leader on vertical ice routes, construct top-rope anchors, and move
efficiently on steep ice terrain. Students will also have the opportunity to join the
Mountaineers ice climbing community on winter outings to some of the area's ice
climbing destinations.
The seminar is intended for club members with little or no exposure to
ice climbing; however, the ability to safely belay and rappel is required. Club
members who have completed the Basic Climbing program, any of the
crag climbing courses, or have equivalent experience are encouraged to join!
Seminar fee is $40.
Equipment Required:
Ropes are provided but personal climbing equipment
(harness, helmet, crampons, ice axes, etc ) are not. Purchase, rent, or
borrow the required equipment. Alpine ice gear can suffice for the Mt
Baker field trip. More details about the personal climbing equipment
required will be provided at the Oct 3rd Classroom Meeting. If you have
questions please contact Joe Binder ( binder.joe@gmail.com).
Curriculum and Schedule for Fall/Winter 2007:
-
Classroom Session - Wed Sept 19
Join us for an informal classroom session to see what
ice climbing in the Northwest is all about. We'll give you
an overview of the climbing opportunities the area has to offer, cover the
logistics for the field trip, and give you a chance to check out some of the
gear you'll need to borrow, rent, or steal for the field trip
-
Field trip at Mt Baker - Sun October 13-14 or 27-28
We'll spend a weekend at Mt Baker climbing everything from low-angle. to
moderate. to vertical. even overhanging ice! A small group
and close proximity to camp will ensure that you have ample time to climb. Students
must attend one weekend (Sat/Sun) with an overnight camp on the lower mountain.
Eligibility and How to Join:
The seminar limited to 18 people. Any club member with the ability to safely
belay and rappel is encouraged to join! Completion of the Basic Climbing course, any of the crag
climbing courses, or equivalent experience is accepted. Please email
Joe Binder ( binder.joe@gmail.com) if you're
interested!
Questions? Contact Joe Binder at binder.joe@gmail.com.
Water Ice Climbing Course
NOTE: This course is not available
winter 2007/2008. This is a great course but Mike Maude has retired from
running it and we have not yet found someone who wants to take on this large of
a commitment. We hope to offer this course next year.
The Water Ice Course covers all of the techniques and
equipment required for modern water ice and mixed climbing, including clothing
and equipment, training, ice formations, steep ice, and mixed climbing/dry
tooling techniques, screw placements, anchors, leading and swinging leads on
steep ice. The course consists of three lectures, three weekend field trips,
and two week long trips. Of special note, the Ouray trip culminates in the
Ouray Ice Festival. The Ouray trip is a prerequisite for the Banff trip, which
can be taken in a second year. Graduates of the course will be able to swing
leads on moderate (WI-3) multi-pitch ice climbs.
Eligibility:
Course is limited to 16, and limited to members of the
Leader's List, Intermediate graduates, or Intermediate students who have
completed their ice field trips and the bulk of their Intermediate Climbs.
Climbing experience outside the Mountaineers will also be taken into
consideration. Completion of MOFA is required.
Course Fee:
$120. Substantial additional cost will be incurred in
travel, though we try to strike a balance between cost and convenience. Airfare
and lodging in Ouray averaged $600 per person in 2002. Lodging in Banff in the
Lake Louise Hostel was $110 per person.
How to Register:
During the registration period, complete the course
registration form and mail it with the course fee to The mountaineers, 300 3rd
Ave W, Seattle, WA 98119.
Questions?
Contact Jeff Street at
jeffstrt@verizon.net.
Introduction to Mixed Climbing
The objective of this seminar is to learn and master mixed climbing/dry tooling
techniques in a top roped setting. In this seminar we will not really be
teaching you but rather we will all be teaching ourselves and each other. We
will get together for one evening in the classroom and then three
individual full days in the field. This will all happen in late october
and november when it's too cold and wet to rock climb and there's no snow or
ice yet for climbing or skiing. Besides learning mixed climbing this
should be a great way to get fit for the ice season. Come learn and
practice together with us!
Seminar fee is $20.
Equipment Required: Ropes are provided but personal climbing equipment (harness, helmet, crampons, ice axes, etc ) are not.
Curriculum and Schedule for Fall 2007
-
Classroom Session - Tues Oct 30th
Join us for an informal classroom session where
we'll get to know each other, present an overview of drytooling and
mixed climbing techniques, discuss equipment, and the logistics
of the field trips, etc.
- Top Roping Field Trips - Sat Nov 3,10,17
We'll spend three or more individual days at various dry tooling top
roping sites working on our skills and fitness.
It is not required to attend all of these.
Eligibility and How to Join:
This seminar is limited to 12 people and is intended for club
members with prior ice climbing experience but anyone
with the ability to safely belay and rappel can join.
Please contact Jeff Street (jeffstrt@verizon.net)
if you're interested!
Questions? Contact Jeff Street at jeffstrt@verizon.net.
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