Courses for 2011

• Crag Climbing
• Advanced Multi Pitch Efficiency
• Introduction to Rock Climbing
• Sport Climbing

Overview

Rock climbing courses are geared toward different interests and levels of ability. In order to help with selecting which course is right for you we have outlined some of the major differences between different types of climbing.

Top-Roped versus Lead Climbing

In top-roped climbing the climber is tied to a rope which passes through a solid anchor at the top of the climbing route. The top rope protects the climber against falling. In lead climbing, the climber clips the rope through protection points while climbing. Lead climbing requires the ability to climb confidently and safely.

Bolted Climbing vs. Trad Climbing

Bolted or sport climbing routes are routes with permanent man-made hardware allowing the climber to focus almost exclusively on the actual climbing. Traditional or trad. climbing routes do not have permanent hardware and the climber must use natural features such as cracks to place temporary pieces of hardware to protect against falling.

Free Climbing vs. Aid Climbing

In free climbing, the climber's weight is supported exclusively by direct contact between the climber's body and the rock, with the rope and climbing hardware serving only as a backup in case of a fall. In aid climbing, the climber attaches specialized hardware to the route to support body weight and move upward. Crag climbing course offerings do not cover aid climbing but there is a seminar offered by the Mountaineers which does.

Crag Climbing vs. Mountaineering

The Mountaineers also teaches rock climbing as part of its broader, mountaineering-oriented Basic Climbing and Intermediate Climbing courses. The Crag Climbing Course is not a mountaineering course and will not prepare you for a backcountry experience.

Course: Crag Climbing

The Crag Climbing course is designed to teach the skills, knowledge, and techniques needed to safely lead traditional routes on outdoor crags. The course consists of one hands-on skill assessment/review, one gym climbing session, and four weekend field trips. The field trips are located at popular rock climbing areas in Washington. After successfully completing the field trips, students are expected to lead at least two pitches per climb on three or more Mountaineers Crag Climbs offered during the summer climbing season. Possible climbing areas include Exit 38, Mount Erie, Peshastin Pinnacles, Frenchman Coulee, Castle Rock, Royal Columns, Icicle Canyon, City of Rocks, Smith Rocks, Squamish, and Yosemite.

The Crag Course will teach safe use of active and passive protection needed for lead climbing in the crag environment, construction of safe anchor systems for top-rope/lead climbing, swinging leads on mid-5th class (5.4 - 5.8) multi-pitch climbs, belaying a partner from multiple directions, rappelling in a variety of settings, and other pertinent skills. The Crag course does not teach alpine travel and navigation techniques, nor is it a beginning climbing class.

Individuals who graduate from the Crag course may be able to apply these skills to other Mountaineers climbing courses; interested individuals should consult with the Administrative branches of the prospective course to determine equivalency.

Instruction Topics

• Selection and use of equipment needed to safely lead traditional rock climbs
  
• Climbing techniques and strategies
• Safe anchor construction and top-rope setups
• Placement and efficient use of passive and active rock protection
  

Costs and Schedule

The course fee is $350 for Mountaineers members and $400 for non-members.  All students must sign up for the course on the Mountaineers website and pay the course fee.  There will be NO REFUNDS after 3/23/2011.

Equipment costs are your own responsibility, and can range from $200 to $800 or more depending on what you already own and how much you can afford.  Gear commonly used throughout the course includes:

• Rope
  
• Passive protection (e.g. 1 set of nuts)
• Active protection (e.g. 1 set of Black Diamond cams, size 0.4 to 3)
• Alpine draws (e.g. 6 sewn runners with 12 wiregate carabiners)
• Personal gear (harness, rock shoes, helmet, auto blocking belay device i.e., BD ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso, and 2 personal anchors)
  

Additionally, obtaining a Remote Medical First Aid Training certifictation, if not current, is required for graduation.  This is an additional course and fee.

• Thur Mar 24: Kickoff Meeting
• Sat Apr 9: Skills Review
• Apr 17, 23 or 24: Lead Falling and Lead Belay seminar at Vertical World
• Sat Apr 30 or Sun May 1: Field Trip 1 at Tieton (only 1 day is required)
• Sat May 21 and Sun May 22: Field Trip 2 at Leavenworth (both days are required)
• Sat Jun 4 and Sun Jun 5: Field Trip 3 at Leavenworth (both days are required) The group camp site at Bridge Creek has been reserved for all students and instrctors this weekend.
  
• Sat Jun 18 or Sun Jun 19: Field Trip 4 at Leavenworth (only 1 day is required) This is the final field trip and all students will be climbing a multi pitch route with an instructor.
  

Eligibility

The Crag Course is not an introductory climbing course.  It is open to anyone over the age of 18 with rock climbing experience that meets the minimum requirements below:

• Ability to climb at least 5.7 on top-rope outside
  
• Able to LEAD climb 5.6 on bolts (indoors or outdoors)
• Safe belay technique
• Knowledge of basic knots used in climbing
  

Acceptance of the applicant is also based on:

• Depth of previous rock climbing experience,
• Current rock climbing activities.

Course size limit: 20 students

How to Apply

Registration Opens: Dec 1, 2010

Complete the application form and e-mail it to seattlecragcourse@gmail.com or mail it to:

The Mountaineers
ATTN: Crag Course
7700 Sand Point Way NE
Seattle, WA 98115

An application may also be requested by calling the clubhouse at (206) 521-6000.

Once an applicant is accepted into the course, they will need to register for the class and pay the course fee.

Graduation Requirements

• Pass all required field trips, including the skills assessment/review and indoor gym session.
• Successfully complete three multi-pitch Crag Climbs with a minimum of 2 leads on each climb.  No sport climbing will be done in this class and it may not count towards graduation requirements.
• Apply for graduation using the Course Graduation form.  Form must be sent to the seattlecragcourse google group.  No mailed applications will be accepted.
• A current copy of the Remote Medical training first aid card must be attached to the graduation application.  This course is offered throughout the year at the Mountaineers Clubhouse and must be completed prior to graduation from this course.
  
• All requirements must be complete and the application submitted by the first Tuesday of October 2011. Students who are not able to complete all the requirements by this time can apply for a one year extension.
  

Volunteer to Instruct

If you are a seasoned Crag graduate, seasoned Intermediate student or graduate, or climb leader, we highly value your help instructing at Crag Course Field Trips. Register to instruct for the Crag Course activities online, by e-mailing seattlecragcourse@gmail.com or by calling the clubhouse at (206) 521-6000.

Questions?

Contact the Crag Course at seattlecragcourse@gmail.com.

Course: Advanced Multi Pitch Efficiency

Welcome to AMPE. This advanced multi pitch efficiency course is designed to help the 5.8 trad climber push their grade into the 5.9-5.10’s, move into longer routes and learn more advanced techniques for moving efficiently through a route in a group of 2 or more climbers. You must be climbing comfortably in the 5.8 trad range to place an application. Concepts that will be covered in this course include, belaying off the anchor with an auto blocking device for 1 or 2 climbers, simuli rappelling, rope management at the belay and for rappelling, extending the rap and friction hitching. Applicants will also have the opportunity to climb world class multi pitch routes at Squamish B.C. for a full week. Advanced crack climbing and slab climbing techniques will be offered. Applications for this course open up April 1st and close May 27th, 2011. This course will include 3 evening sessions to be held at the Seattle branch clubhouse in Magnuson Park. Dates for the 3 evening sessions are Thursday June 23rd and Thursday July 7th and 14th. Evening classes will be from 6:30pm to 8:30pm. The week long field trip to Squamish BC is from Sat. July 23rd to Sat. July 30th . Students will need to provide their own transportation to and from Squamish and a current US passport or enhanced driver’s license is required to cross the border.

The fee for this course will be $450 for members and $525.00 for non-members. Each participant should have their own personal climbing gear and rack. Ropes will be provided.

Sign up for this course is by leader permission only. Please fill out and submit an application form (available soon). Letters of acceptance will be sent by email no later than May 31st. If you have any questions please submit them to Loniuchytil@msn.com.

Course: Introduction to Rock Climbing

The Introduction to Rock Climbing course is designed for those who have little to no outdoor rock climbing experience. In this course, you will learn the basics of top-rope outdoor climbing. This includes basic climbing knots, belaying skills, climbing technique, and converting to rappel. At the end of the course, you will know the basics for top-rope climbing on your own as well as safely following a lead climber on sport/crag climbs. NOTE: this is a top-rope course only. It does not prepare you for an alpine environment or lead climbing

You may sign-up online ( www.mountaineers.org ) or call The Mountaineers clubhouse at 206-521-6000. Sign-up for the spring course will begin March 1, 2010 and end April 19, 2010. Cost for the course is $150. For questions or information regarding this course please contact Amy Hardie amylh4@hotmail.com or Susan Sayers susanjsayers@gmail.com.

For those women interested in our women's climbing forum you may go to the following website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/women_climbers/. To post a message email, women_climbers@yahoogroups.com.

Course Dates:

Spring 2010 Course:

Lecture: April 21, 7 pm, Mountaineers Building

Vertical World (Seattle) Session: April 28

Field Trip 1: May 8, Mountaineers Building

Field Trip 2: May 22-23, Leavenworth

Fall 2010 Course:

Lecture: August 11, 7pm, Mountaineers Building

Vertical World Session: August 18

Field Trip 1: August 28, Mountaineers Building

Field Trip 2: September 11 & 12, Leavenworth

Number of Students:

15 students will be accepted into each class. Since no prior climbing experience is required and this is an intro class, students will be accepted by their order of signing up for the class. Students who attend the first lecture and decide to discontinue the class will be able to get a refund. However, no refunds will be permitted after the Vertical World session.

Course: Sport Climbing

The Sport Climbing course covers all aspects of climbing single-pitch routes at outdoor sport climbing areas with a focus on climbing technique and conditioning. Technical skills acquired in sport climbing can be applied to all types of climbing adventures, from sport routes to multi-pitch traditional routes and even to ice climbing. Figure out what you need to do to start leading into the 5.10’s and beyond on sport routes. Learn new techniques and improve your physical and mental strength during two months of training towards a target redpoint sport route at Vantage.

Spring 2011 Schedule

Evening Lectures at the Mountaineers Program Center:

March 2, 6:30 Course Intro and Partner Set-up Potluck

March 10, 6:30 Physical Training

April 27, 6:30 Mental training