The purpose of the Aid and Big Wall Seminar is to develop a cadre of Mountaineers who are capable of climbing routes on El Capitan and other big walls. It will provide a gathering place for wall climbers to gain experience, discuss topics of interest, evaluate better techniques and develop good wall partners. It will also offer an instructional format for those new to aid climbing while opening avenues for climbers to extend their skills and experience. Online course details here.

First-Year Participant Goals

Develop the capability, using traditional Yosemite techniques, to swing leads on moderate (A2/C2), multi-pitch, aid climbs of more than one day. Additional knowledge through experience is a must before attempting big wall routes like those on El Capitan.

Continuing Participant Goals

Learn and practice better ways to jug, clean, haul, body hoist and perform other skills. Improve speed and efficiency. Define and develop good form. Learn and practice rescue of an unconscious wall partner from above and below. Learn solo aid and how to solo wall routes.

Meetings

March 9 and 24, April 7, May 5, August TBD
(All 7 p.m. at club headquarters)

Practices

March 13 or 14 on north wall of club headquarters
March 27 or 28 on north wall of club headquarters
April 10-11 at Vantage
May 8-9 at Index
June-August - Experience climbs in the Northwest; swing leads on multi-pitch climbs Sept. 18-26 (tentatively) Yosemite

First-Year Participant Requirements

• Lead at 5.7 level or better
• 5+ multi-pitch intermediate level rock climbs
• Application and course fee to Mountaineers by Jan. 15, 2010.
• Attend all seminar meetings
• Successfully complete all four practice sessions
• Swing leads and complete two multi-pitch aid climbs
• Complete one “small wall”/Grade IV with an overnight on ledge or porta-ledge (may postpone to second year)
• Yosemite climbing trip (may postpone to second year)
  (Limit is 8. After prerequisites, selection is based on the quality and quantity of intermediate-level, multi-pitch rock climbs)

Continuing Participant Requirements

• Successfully completed First Year of ABW seminar, or accepted for advanced entry
• Help at some field trips or serve on the ABW subcommittee
• Complete Yosemite trip and a “small wall”/ Grade IV+ route, as well as an overnight on a wall
• Climb, climb, climb

Fee

First year participants: $300 per person.
Continuing participants: help on the ABW subcommittee and/or at practice sessions

Gear

Aid climbing and big walls in particular require much gear. It is recommended that you borrow and try different gear at the first few practice sessions before making large investments in gear. Gear required for typical Grade V/VI big walls will be displayed and discussed at seminar meetings.

Application Deadline and Registration

Application deadline is Jan. 15, 2010. Applications will be available online (first go to www.mountaineers.org and log in, then click here) or by e-mail. If you have applied in previous years, but have not successfully completed the first year, you must reapply. Upon acceptance and with leader’s permission, register and pay for the program here by searching 3/9/2010 - Climbing, or by calling Member Services at 206-521-6001.

For more information contact Takeo Kuraishi: takeo.kuraishi@attglobal.net, 425-273-3856.

Introduction to Aid

Late each Fall we offer an Introduction to Aid Seminar. It consists of a one evening Chalk Talk and one Saturday of practice on the north wall of the Mountaineers building. This Intro equips one to French Free a few moves on a free climb, or do a free route having a bolt ladder, or just learn what aid climbing techniques are all about. It’s a way to prepare for the full Aid & Big Wall Seminar or routes like Monkey Face at Smith Rock and Royal Arches in Yosemite. Dates TBA.